Acne is Chasing White Rabbits While Miu Miu is Taming Wild Horses

While the Haute Couture shows have barely started in Paris, some brands are taking advantage of a less busy schedule to unveil their commercial collections – such as Acne, with its Spring/Summer 2020 women's ready-to-wear, and Miu Miu, with its 2020 Cruise collection


Acne Studios Spring/Summer 2020 ready-to-wear show in Paris. Photo by Guillaume Roujas for NOWFASHION.

But although these two brands do not necessarily have the same clientele and are far from having a comparable artistic direction, Jonny Johansson and Miuccia Prada have, unwittingly, shared a common denominator: that of transgressing conservatism with a touch of intelligentsia so dear to their respective brands.  

Taking us on a journey of self-discovery, Johansson delivered a collection catered towards contemporary free-spirits – a more minimalist and sophisticated version of the 70s hippies. Nature, and our connection to it, was Johansson's main theme this season, and as such he focused on creating fluid, soft, and layered silhouettes in earthy pastel hues that would gently embrace the body rather than dominate it. In addition, subtle hippiesque statements were made, with tear drop-resembling face jewelry and feather accessories. Overall, the designer reaffirmed his signature style artistic direction with an almost gender-neutral approach to ready-to-wear that came with clear and refined lines and combined both wearability and a sense of creativity.

Acne Studios Spring/Summer 2020 ready-to-wear show in Paris. Photo by Guillaume Roujas for NOWFASHION.


Finally, Johanson's musical choice for his show's finale, Jefferson Airplane's "White Rabbit,” summed up the collection quite well. After all, Jefferson Airplane's iconic track – despite making a cheeky nod to Lewis Carroll's Alice In Wonderland and psychedelic drug use – was telling its generation to create their own realities, and to keep their distance from a mostly brainwashed, mainstream society – which is pretty much what Johansson did with his collection. 


Miu Miu Cruise 2020 show in Paris. Photo by Gio Staiano for NOWFASHION.

Music is what kept Miuccia Prada going as well. Earlier that weekend, on Saturday night, she closed the Cruise 2020 show season with her "Miu Miu Jockey Club" show, which had her models walking the finale to the Rolling Stone's iconic Wild Horses soundtrack. 

And wild it was: horse racing was the evening's theme. And if you weren't able to bet on the winning horse – thoroughbred stallion Le Berry won the race; for anyone wondering, yes, the brand hosted an actual horserace ahead of the runway show – you could at least bet on the clothes: Miuccia Prada did what she does best for Miu Miu, delivering a culturally and historically infused womenswear offering with a girly-girl touch. 

Miu Miu Cruise 2020 show in Paris. Photo by Gio Staiano for NOWFASHION.


Set at the Auteuil stadium, not far away from the Eiffel Tower, the 51 silhouettes mixed and matched retro-influences from the 1930s and 70s, with a little pinch of 90s flavor. Accessories were everything this season: Miuccia Prada would stack up hats on the models' heads, such as caps, bobs, berets, and other cool headwear pieces. Shoes were also an eye-catcher and included cork-soled derbies and sandals, as well as disco platforms. 

Checkered patterns, horse carriage prints, and paillette-embroidered cocktail dresses, as well as boxy jackets paired with high-waisted shorts, all made a bizarre-beautiful conservative statement, but also reminded us that while Miuccia Prada might be fond of nostalgia, she never delivers anachronistic designs. Her styles, as much as they were rooted in past references, came with quirky elements, including embroidered Chelsea collars formed into décolletés, bejeweled puffy sleeves, and plenty of iridescent and eye-popping bourgeois-chic numbers that would appeal to the millennial generation; thus reminding us of Prada's willingness to cater to women that are living in the here and now.

SHARE
  • Facebook
  • Twitter
  • Pinterest
SIMILAR ARTICLES
Meet Halpern’s Fashion Escapism
By Alice Ierace
“I wasn’t one of those people who knew I always wanted to be a designer.  I always loved clothes,...
By Alice Ierace
“I wasn’t one of those people who knew I always wanted to be a designer.  I always loved clothes, and the idea of fashion from a young age; my mother is superbly glamorous and had great style,” tells us Michael Halpern, founder of the eponymous brand Halpern.“I loved fashion magazines, and...
“I wasn’t one of those people who knew I always wanted to be a designer.  I always loved clothes, and the idea of fashion from a young age; my mother is superbly glamorous and had great style,” tells us Michael Halpern, founder of the eponymous brand Halpern.“I loved fashion magazines, and listening to my mother and her friends talk about what life was like in the 1970s of New York, it was a...
Adidas and Allbirds Collaborate on Lowest Carbon Emissions Shoe
By Rebecca Hitchon
Sportswear brand adidas has teamed up with footwear company Allbirds to develop a sports...
By Rebecca Hitchon
Sportswear brand adidas has teamed up with footwear company Allbirds to develop a sports performance shoe with the lowest ever carbon footprint.Despite being competitors, the brands want the future of the footwear industry to be more about collaboration than competition. “There is an urgent need...
Sportswear brand adidas has teamed up with footwear company Allbirds to develop a sports performance shoe with the lowest ever carbon footprint.Despite being competitors, the brands want the future of the footwear industry to be more about collaboration than competition. “There is an urgent need to reduce our global carbon number, and this mission is bigger than just Allbirds or adidas. Whether...
Gary Green’s Black And White Photographs Delve into NYC’s Punk and Post-Punk Scene
By Sasha Regazzoni
It was the summer of 1976 when American photographer Gary Green moved from the humdrum suburbs of...
By Sasha Regazzoni
It was the summer of 1976 when American photographer Gary Green moved from the humdrum suburbs of Long Island to a two-bedroom apartment in Lower Manhattan, the epicentre of the up and coming anarchistic wave of music known as ‘punk’, to work as a photographer assistant. Coincidentally it was...
It was the summer of 1976 when American photographer Gary Green moved from the humdrum suburbs of Long Island to a two-bedroom apartment in Lower Manhattan, the epicentre of the up and coming anarchistic wave of music known as ‘punk’, to work as a photographer assistant. Coincidentally it was also the year the Ramones released their first album and punk idols Patti Smith, Television and Richard...
Issey Miyake Releases Exclusive Documentary
By Alice Ierace
Issey Miyake released an unpublished docu-film that shows the birth and evolution of the...
By Alice Ierace
Issey Miyake released an unpublished docu-film that shows the birth and evolution of the collection Homme Plissé Issey Miyake and shares a message of freedom, movement and comfort as new codes for men's clothing.Opening with a scene from Flying Bodies, a video that captures the 2013 performance...
Issey Miyake released an unpublished docu-film that shows the birth and evolution of the collection Homme Plissé Issey Miyake and shares a message of freedom, movement and comfort as new codes for men's clothing.Opening with a scene from Flying Bodies, a video that captures the 2013 performance of the Aomori University Men's Rhythmic Gymnastics Team which marks the debut of the collection, the...
OP-Ed: Is Voice Technology the Future of Retail?
By Elisa Carassai
Will the voice-operated assistant change the way we...
By Elisa Carassai
Will the voice-operated assistant change the way we shop?   The first time I came across Amazon’s Alexa, I was amazed by the fact that a voice-operated assistant could work so well. Having Siri on my iPhone, I had never really made use of the...
Will the voice-operated assistant change the way we shop?   The first time I came across Amazon’s Alexa, I was amazed by the fact that a voice-operated assistant could work so well. Having Siri on my iPhone, I had never really made use of the voice-operated system integrated inside my phone, as it would often fail to correctly execute my...
Cult Scandi Brand Cecilie Bahnsen Debuts Shoe Collection With Charles Keith
By Elisa Carassai
Joining forces this week are designers Charles & Keith and Cecile Bahnsen, who collaborated on an...
By Elisa Carassai
Joining forces this week are designers Charles & Keith and Cecile Bahnsen, who collaborated on an exciting shoe line inspired by traditional school-wear. The collection features some of the most classic Charles & Keith shapes and silhouettes which are reinterpreted by Bahnsen and finished with...
Joining forces this week are designers Charles & Keith and Cecile Bahnsen, who collaborated on an exciting shoe line inspired by traditional school-wear. The collection features some of the most classic Charles & Keith shapes and silhouettes which are reinterpreted by Bahnsen and finished with her signature brooch. Four various styles are featured including three Mary Jane designs and a...
Five CBD Brands That Are Doing it Right
By Ludovica Parisi
CBD is being marketed everywhere. From oils and topicals to edibles, there are now infinite ways...
By Ludovica Parisi
CBD is being marketed everywhere. From oils and topicals to edibles, there are now infinite ways to introduce cannabidiols in your lifestyle. However, as buyers get overwhelmed by the number of products being launched every week, companies have to work harder to stand out from the competition....
CBD is being marketed everywhere. From oils and topicals to edibles, there are now infinite ways to introduce cannabidiols in your lifestyle. However, as buyers get overwhelmed by the number of products being launched every week, companies have to work harder to stand out from the competition. So, what is the strategic approach to ensure people’s trust in a product? The answer lies in the...
Cuoio di Toscana Launches Campaign Against Domestic Violence
By Alice Ierace
Italian sole-leather brand Cuoio di Toscana, alongside many companies and institutions of fashion...
By Alice Ierace
Italian sole-leather brand Cuoio di Toscana, alongside many companies and institutions of fashion and luxury leather goods, shared their the commitment to defend women. “Violence against women does not go into quarantine: at the expense of the current moment of emergency, the numbers affecting...
Italian sole-leather brand Cuoio di Toscana, alongside many companies and institutions of fashion and luxury leather goods, shared their the commitment to defend women. “Violence against women does not go into quarantine: at the expense of the current moment of emergency, the numbers affecting this social injury show no sign of diminishing and, if we consider the case of domestic violence in...