And on the eighth day God created Karlie Kloss. Today the St.Louis model walked in a show so good it should have happened twice. The twenty-eight looks by new Paris based designer Anthony Vaccarello were visually riveting and thought provoking. How are the skin baring panels held together? Taut elastic versus light ruching - how can the graphic angles hold? How can the dresses be mere slivers yet none of it looks slutty? Then the more basic: how will I get that on? How will I get it off? Each look provoked so much thought that I didn’t even realise that it was Karmen Pedaru, Sigrid Agren and Abbey Lee (amongst others) wearing the clothes until the final walk through happened. It was then that I wished for a re-run of the entire show. Stealing the event was Karlie Kloss. Her panther walk plus the final slinky floor-length dress, sent my pulse ricocheting through my ears and caused an eruption on the front row of Parisian ‘now’ girls and model agent power players.
Luxe tomboy Lou Doillon, independent record label owner and model Caroline de Maigret, tv fashion commentator Mademoiselle Agnés, Emmanuelle Alt and Chanel accessories designer Leticia Crahay were just some of those present yet the atmosphere at a Vaccarello show is never haughty. On the contrary, as each show grows in size (this is still just Vaccarello’s third runway presentation) and the count of ‘le top’ models rises, it’s turning into quite the club and more like a gathering of girlfriends waiting to see ‘what’s next’.
What comes next chez Vaccarello for SS12 is his continuing journey into graphic panelling, sliced viscose, metal clips and draping held by the tiniest gathering and dresses that hug like a second skin. New to his portfolio came navy, snakeskin print, safari pocketing on shorts, a baggy pantsuit and a sheer bomber jacket. All of this is gravity defying, daring clothing for bodies that most of us don’t have. It’s elitist clothing for the young, rich and plugged in; unapologetically constructed for thin, edgy, switched on girls. It's certainly hard to imagine his clothes being worn by those with fake McBosoms and McVeneers. Speaking backstage, Vaccarello, the current laureate of the French fashion award ANDAM, named photos of Herb Ritts from the 90s as inspiration and that he’d envisaged his muse swimming under moonlight. What a divine vision. By the feel of his creations, the muse in question is probably bathing in an exclusive, moon facing pool that's floating far, far above us in outerspace.
Soundtrack: Lotus by Radiohead
(words: Sarah Hay)