Calvin Klein Collection Menswear Fall Winter 2013 Milan
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At Calvin Klein designer Italo Zucchelli has gotten himself into a well worn groove. Not to be mistaken for a rut, no rather- with his fall/winter 2013 collection- he demonstrated himself to be a designer who seems fulfilled with his place in the fashion world. Over the seasons he has perfected his menswear style of sporty urban, utilitarian clothes, injected with just the right amount of high-tech fabric manipulation to make them continually current. Once again all of those components were in the mix in this show, which hummed along like a well-oiled machine.

The overall minimalist vibe of the collection was given an update via both textural fabrics and an abundance of combat pockets. The pocket embellishments covered puffy vests, parkas and pants. Often they blended in with the background fabric but the style was more striking when the pockets (always embossed with a graphic pattern) came in a contrasting color.

As for all that texture, the designer astutely chose to use only dark fabrics for the mesh, quilting and embossing techniques he employed to create a myriad of graphic patterns. As the show progressed those patterns became more prominent and aggressive in nature. And when used on the more rounded shape of sweatshirts or longer gilets the image of tire treads came to mind.

It was a fine collection that expertly balanced experimentation and wearablity. Making this show just one more stop on what will surely be the long road ahead for Zucchelli in menswear.

- Jessica Michault
 

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