Rethinking Fashion Week After Corona Virus
By Fabio Ciquera
Air kissing hasn’t been more appropriate at this season’s...
By Fabio Ciquera
Air kissing hasn’t been more appropriate at this season’s shows. The impact of the COVID2019 has been very well documented in the past weeks. During Paris Fashion Week, the global stocks tumbled as it did in 2008, creating a level of uncertainty that was...
Air kissing hasn’t been more appropriate at this season’s shows. The impact of the COVID2019 has been very well documented in the past weeks. During Paris Fashion Week, the global stocks tumbled as it did in 2008, creating a level of uncertainty that was not on records since 9/11 terrorist attacks in New York.    The broader fashion industry has...
Louis Vuitton Aesthetic Times Collision
By Gianluca Cantaro
Nicolas Ghesquière proposed the "anti total-look" working on the concept of time and relating...
By Gianluca Cantaro
Nicolas Ghesquière proposed the "anti total-look" working on the concept of time and relating different epochs to their aesthetics. The tie with past, present and future was the main focus and he questioned himself on what would have happened if countless ages had been united in the same moment...
Nicolas Ghesquière proposed the "anti total-look" working on the concept of time and relating different epochs to their aesthetics. The tie with past, present and future was the main focus and he questioned himself on what would have happened if countless ages had been united in the same moment and place. His narrative pushed the idea of wearing clothes with a careless approach and a freedom of...
Form Follows Function at Lacoste
By Alice Pfeiffer
Intuitive and spot-on as always, designer Marie-Christine Statz, founder of the label Gauchère –...
By Alice Pfeiffer
Intuitive and spot-on as always, designer Marie-Christine Statz, founder of the label Gauchère – French for left-handed—delivered a pared-down collection of rethought tailoring. One that she confronted with radical feminine touches that nevertheless given a boyish je-ne-sais quoi.A robe-like...
Intuitive and spot-on as always, designer Marie-Christine Statz, founder of the label Gauchère – French for left-handed—delivered a pared-down collection of rethought tailoring. One that she confronted with radical feminine touches that nevertheless given a boyish je-ne-sais quoi.A robe-like blazer opened the show and was followed by a wrap-around skirt with long fringes, and a full, Working...
McQueen's Welsh Poetic Folklore
By Gianluca Cantaro
The in-depth research behind any collection by Sarah Burton for Alexander McQueen is, without a...
By Gianluca Cantaro
By Gianluca Cantaro
The in-depth research behind any collection by Sarah Burton for Alexander McQueen is, without a doubt, one of the most personal and precise processes that spurs the designer to study the subject of the season and could become a topic taught in schools. For Fall-Winter 2020, she dissected Welsh...
The in-depth research behind any collection by Sarah Burton for Alexander McQueen is, without a doubt, one of the most personal and precise processes that spurs the designer to study the subject of the season and could become a topic taught in schools. For Fall-Winter 2020, she dissected Welsh traditional culture, costumes and crafts. "I wanted to imagine a woman which feels heroic, bold and...
Historical Classics at Giambattista Valli
By Alice Pfeiffer
Military yet candid, a leather cape layered over a cropped button-up dress, all in soft pink, led...
By Alice Pfeiffer
Military yet candid, a leather cape layered over a cropped button-up dress, all in soft pink, led the way at Giambattista Valli. The experimentation with a Sixties Yeye Girl silhouette carried on in the shape of a baby-doll chiffon number with a Mao collar, or in a series of...
Military yet candid, a leather cape layered over a cropped button-up dress, all in soft pink, led the way at Giambattista Valli. The experimentation with a Sixties Yeye Girl silhouette carried on in the shape of a baby-doll chiffon number with a Mao collar, or in a series of minidresses-meet-coat. Think France Gall at her peak. Which was then given a gentle punk twist: Like East and West London...
Valentino Surprises with a New Woman
By Gianluca Cantaro
Pierpaolo Piccioli at Valentino finally dared, and the result was striking. "I wanted to picture...
By Gianluca Cantaro
Pierpaolo Piccioli at Valentino finally dared, and the result was striking. "I wanted to picture the reality in its whole without writing any manifestos about inclusivity", explained the designer the morning before the show. "I think that talk about categories is pointless; I see humanity in its...
Pierpaolo Piccioli at Valentino finally dared, and the result was striking. "I wanted to picture the reality in its whole without writing any manifestos about inclusivity", explained the designer the morning before the show. "I think that talk about categories is pointless; I see humanity in its whole with the same rights and without boundaries and limitations. That's why I explored the uniform...
Breaking Down Codes at Anais Jourden
By Alice Pfeiffer
Somewhere between a tutu and petticoat, a midi-length skirt in ruffled tulle opened the show at...
By Alice Pfeiffer
Somewhere between a tutu and petticoat, a midi-length skirt in ruffled tulle opened the show at Anais Jourden — and was to run like a golden thread throughout the collection. First paired with a crushed candy-coloured lamé blouson, followed by a lurex-threaded twinset and a silver moiré blazer,...
Somewhere between a tutu and petticoat, a midi-length skirt in ruffled tulle opened the show at Anais Jourden — and was to run like a golden thread throughout the collection. First paired with a crushed candy-coloured lamé blouson, followed by a lurex-threaded twinset and a silver moiré blazer, the garment somehow managed to evoke a modernized take on Degas’s ballerina painting. True to her...
Neo Future at Comme Des Garçons
By Gianluca Cantaro
The experimental research of Rei Kawakubo at Comme Des Garçons is an endless creative stream that...
By Gianluca Cantaro
By Gianluca Cantaro
The experimental research of Rei Kawakubo at Comme Des Garçons is an endless creative stream that pushes her to imagine impossible forms to cover the body both with performance and functional approach. The first step is the incredible show that, every season for the past six years, surprises for...
The experimental research of Rei Kawakubo at Comme Des Garçons is an endless creative stream that pushes her to imagine impossible forms to cover the body both with performance and functional approach. The first step is the incredible show that, every season for the past six years, surprises for the radical design showcased on stage. The functional one then is the development of the product she...
Haider Ackermann's Urban Bohemia
By Alice Pfeiffer
Off-white on ivory, satin over velour: this collection deployed a harmony of associations, all...
By Alice Pfeiffer
Off-white on ivory, satin over velour: this collection deployed a harmony of associations, all revolving around rethought and pared-down suits. In his uniquely fluid aesthetic, Ackermann opened the show with a buttoned-up frock coat from under which peaked out leather trousers - a combination...
Off-white on ivory, satin over velour: this collection deployed a harmony of associations, all revolving around rethought and pared-down suits. In his uniquely fluid aesthetic, Ackermann opened the show with a buttoned-up frock coat from under which peaked out leather trousers - a combination resulting, against all odds, in timeless femininity rather than biker chic. This was followed by the...
Slimane's Celine Chases Enduring Fame
By Gianluca Cantaro
Hedi Slimane seemed to state it bluntly: like it or not...
By Gianluca Cantaro
Hedi Slimane seemed to state it bluntly: like it or not this is me and now I'm doing it at Celine. His language is clear and hard wired in everybody's mind. No surprises, no shake-ups, just him and his image. The fleeting DNA of the french Maison easily...
Hedi Slimane seemed to state it bluntly: like it or not this is me and now I'm doing it at Celine. His language is clear and hard wired in everybody's mind. No surprises, no shake-ups, just him and his image. The fleeting DNA of the french Maison easily lays itself open to different personal interpretations, as it has already happened with previous...
The Devil Is In The Details
By Alice Pfeiffer
Philosopher Walter Benjamin introduced a concept that he named the “optical unconscious”,...
By Alice Pfeiffer
By Alice Pfeiffer
Philosopher Walter Benjamin introduced a concept that he named the “optical unconscious”, referring to the most infinite details that our eyes perceive without us realizing - but which are nevertheless generating associations and emotions.This is something Christian Wijnants seems to master: by...
Philosopher Walter Benjamin introduced a concept that he named the “optical unconscious”, referring to the most infinite details that our eyes perceive without us realizing - but which are nevertheless generating associations and emotions.This is something Christian Wijnants seems to master: by subtly confronting references and playing with nuances, he gives an impalpable aura to his...
Satoshi Kondo’s Vision for Miyake
By Gianluca Cantaro
Ise is a small Japanese city in the central Mie Prefecture located on the eastern edge of the Kii...
By Gianluca Cantaro
Ise is a small Japanese city in the central Mie Prefecture located on the eastern edge of the Kii Peninsula. Here lies a big shrine complex centred on two main buildings that are the heart of the Shinto religion and it is famous for its tradition that has lasted over 1.300 years: every two...
Ise is a small Japanese city in the central Mie Prefecture located on the eastern edge of the Kii Peninsula. Here lies a big shrine complex centred on two main buildings that are the heart of the Shinto religion and it is famous for its tradition that has lasted over 1.300 years: every two decades the old shrines are dismantled, and new ones are built on an adjacent site. Why? Among the...
Shanghai Fashion Week Announces Special Edition
By Alice Ierace
Shanghai Fashion Week has received understanding and support from various parties in the industry...
By Alice Ierace
Shanghai Fashion Week has received understanding and support from various parties in the industry since the decision to the postpone AW20 edition was made due to the pneumonia epidemic caused by the coronavirus.To further implement the task of epidemic prevention while protecting the health and...
Shanghai Fashion Week has received understanding and support from various parties in the industry since the decision to the postpone AW20 edition was made due to the pneumonia epidemic caused by the coronavirus.To further implement the task of epidemic prevention while protecting the health and safety of partners, audience and staff, SFW has decided to make changes regarding the organisation of...
Paco Rabanne's Poetic Female Stength
By Gianluca Cantaro
At Paco Rabanne, Julien Dossena presented an exquisite collection which celebrated the strength...
By Gianluca Cantaro
At Paco Rabanne, Julien Dossena presented an exquisite collection which celebrated the strength of the women and their freedom. "I wanted to highlight their power," explained the designer backstage after the show. "In today's difficult world, they need to be strong and express it. But I also...
At Paco Rabanne, Julien Dossena presented an exquisite collection which celebrated the strength of the women and their freedom. "I wanted to highlight their power," explained the designer backstage after the show. "In today's difficult world, they need to be strong and express it. But I also wanted to emphasize their romance. To do this, I played with a collision of different eras from where I...
Paris When It Sizzles
By Alice Pfeiffer
Draped lace, floral patterns, python prints, and a blazer with a plunging V-line opened Atlein’s...
By Alice Pfeiffer
By Alice Pfeiffer
Draped lace, floral patterns, python prints, and a blazer with a plunging V-line opened Atlein’s show. Purposely quoting conventional codes of femininity, designer Antonin Tron intended to parallel the notion of natural beauty (both in its organic references and its revisiting of classic...
Draped lace, floral patterns, python prints, and a blazer with a plunging V-line opened Atlein’s show. Purposely quoting conventional codes of femininity, designer Antonin Tron intended to parallel the notion of natural beauty (both in its organic references and its revisiting of classic garments) with natural concerns. Designer by day and activist by night, Tron produced the collection...