Formalwear and Future Nostalgia

Day 2 of Paris Fashion Week kicked off at a derelict building on the 15eme arrondissement with the Études show. The Parisian collective has made a name for itself by cleverly anticipating trends ad infusing them with their own identity, creating unpretentious, super covetable collections. 

If this season was no exception, that means we’re in for a tailoring comeback: pleated and tapered trousers were worn with single-button front blazers and actual shoes, made in collaboration with Parisian brand Adieu — is the return of shoes and the demise of ubiquitous sneakers actually the season’s most noteworthy trend? — came in sepulchral black but also in a checkered version, and were occasionally mixed with leather elements. A silver leather trench and trousers were among the collection’s eye-catchers. 

The brand’s statement chunky knits were also ubiquitous, this time with intarsia-ed motifs depicting galaxies, skulls, a ball of fire, and a colorful mapamundi. They all complimented a section of thermal camera-inspired suits, oversized coats and a puffa, all carefully styled and edited into exactly the kind of looks Jérémy Égry, Aurélien Arbet and José Lamali know we all want to wear at the end of the day. 

Effortless tailoring was de rigueur at Luke Meier’s menswear show for OAMC.  Meier’s collection brought a smooth touch to sartorial wear and sought the perfect balance between urban staple pieces and fluid tailoring. The designer’s wardrobe for men’s conveyed a laid-back feeling with functional, easy-to-wear outerwear, photo-printed oversized ponchos, and cool bucket hats that made a nod to the ‘90s. 

Earlier that day, Walter Van Beirendonck did what he does best and featured thought-provoking creations, one outfit at a time. The Belgian designer’s menswear offering comprised punk-influenced silhouettes in a kaleidoscope of eye-popping colors with both a futuristic and nostalgic ‘70s flower-power twist. Oversized, cartoony spike-applications were featured on the men’s torsos and faces as a form of protection from the harsh times we’re living. 

The collection’s name — “War” — hit the nail right on the head: Van Beirendonck addressed social and environmental issues that are currently causing much ink to flow. His prints featured alarming statements such as “Save Planet Earth,” “Stop Violation of Privacy Now,” and even “I Hate Fashion Copycats.” “I’ve always included political messages in my work," he explained in an official statement. “But today more than ever, it's essential to make these kinds of statements.”

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