The stark romantic modernism of Giambattista Valli's couture set, which had floating angular mirrors reflecting a white carpet catwalk featuring oversized diamond outlines filled with flowers, perfectly encapsulated the designer’s aesthetic.
Valli loves creating beautiful, usually floral, ensembles in sculptural silhouettes. With this collection he continued down that path, but there was a lightness and a vicissitude to the show that felt fresh. The inclusion of silk crepe pants underneath tulle skirting certainly had a role to play in this shift. As did the way the designer broke up his embellishment into different adornment techniques. So that a sleeveless dress with stripes of textural silk fringe on the top would then be sectioned off by a black band at the waist which in turn would make way for delicately embroidered flora circling the hips before finishing off in a full skirt filled with three dimensional pink blooms.
Other winning ideas included Valli's decision to suddenly amp up his floral baseline more than two thirds of the way through the show. Look 33 with its day glow budded two-piece and matching massive fur white cape, its lining covered in the same motif, was a showstopper. And the choice to add a smattering of mini dresses into the floral arrangement added just a touch of spice into all the pristine sophistication.
The finale at Valli shows has recently turned into a grandiose moment designed for impactful photos that are social media catnip. And for a big finish Valli favors big — we are talking wedding dress big — gowns that fill doorways and put even the most experienced model through her paces. But boy do they look great on camera.