Historical Classics at Giambattista Valli

Military yet candid, a leather cape layered over a cropped button-up dress, all in soft pink, led the way at Giambattista Valli. The experimentation with a Sixties Yeye Girl silhouette carried on in the shape of a baby-doll chiffon number with a Mao collar, or in a series of minidresses-meet-coat. Think France Gall at her peak. Which was then given a gentle punk twist: Like East and West London reunited, a frayed lace over-the-knee skirt was accessorised with grandma’s pearls, as well as with chunky military boots. Contrasting with the epoch, rigorous 1940s-shapes defined a strict black trench coat or a feathered skirt suit. Mottled red tweed suits followed the sleek, gently retro line of the show. As did the part flapper-girl, part Victorian England ruffled tulle bustier dresses, or the Golden Age Hollywood moiré evening gowns A sheer, floral and embroidered dress came with the strategical place, graphic feathered panels. This best highlighted Giambattista Valli’s approach, mixing opacity and transparency, youthful and military codes, micro vs mini - leading the way to a contemporary and non-sentimental look at history’s classics.

Graphic prints on twisted tailoring best sums up Akris’ collection today. It kicked off with a silk Art Deco-inspired ensemble and a matching military beret, followed by layered and contrasting houndstooth skirt suits. Modernist patterns came flowing in, on a long, streamlined puffer jacket or a woollen trench coat - a rigour that was softened by a lace shirt dress with an elongated Lavallière bow. All-over impressions on round-coloured blouses and loose pants seemed to point out Akris’ uniform of the season. This, and suits, plenty of them: a disco-themed one in fully crystal embroidered silk, another in perforated wool; or yet again in head-to-toe leather – crimson and high waisted for a 70s wink, or blue and nautical with a double-breasted blouson. Last but not least, came a version in an hourglass cut checkered pink, a nod at the Fifties as much as power wear. Playing with straight lines, androgynous classics and more sensuous layers of silk and chiffon, Akris provided a subtle game of contrasts through and through.

SHARE
  • Facebook
  • Twitter
  • Pinterest
SIMILAR ARTICLES
A Play on Elegance and Eccentricity
By Alice Ierace and Ludovica Parisi
From Sophisticated to Eccentric: Meet Chanel’s Punk...
By Alice Ierace and Ludovica Parisi
By Alice Ierace and Ludovica Parisi
From Sophisticated to Eccentric: Meet Chanel’s Punk Princesses Today, Chanel kicked off the second day of Haute Couture Week by unveiling its Fall/Winter 2020-2021 collection. Captured by Mikael Jansson, the collection is marked by a desire for...
From Sophisticated to Eccentric: Meet Chanel’s Punk Princesses Today, Chanel kicked off the second day of Haute Couture Week by unveiling its Fall/Winter 2020-2021 collection. Captured by Mikael Jansson, the collection is marked by a desire for shimmering opulence and sophistication. “I was thinking about a punk princess coming out of ‘Le Palace’ at...
Artisanal Flair meets High-Tech at Couture
By Ludovica Parisi
Debuting her first-ever collection in Moscow less than ten...
By Ludovica Parisi
Debuting her first-ever collection in Moscow less than ten years ago, Russian designer Ulyana Sergeenko has been receiving a lot of media attention due to her meticulous handcraft representing her native heritage.  Taking inspiration from antique...
Debuting her first-ever collection in Moscow less than ten years ago, Russian designer Ulyana Sergeenko has been receiving a lot of media attention due to her meticulous handcraft representing her native heritage.  Taking inspiration from antique markets and vintage boutiques, her previous ready-to-wear collections feature eclectic clothes, bags,...
Dreaming of Faraway Lands At Digital Haute Couture
By Alice Ierace and Elisa Carassai
For the past four months, the global pandemic we’ve been...
By Alice Ierace and Elisa Carassai
By Alice Ierace and Elisa Carassai
For the past four months, the global pandemic we’ve been living in has been disrupting our daily lives, forcing industries to re-invent their plans for the year. Amongst them, the Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode decided to schedule its usual...
For the past four months, the global pandemic we’ve been living in has been disrupting our daily lives, forcing industries to re-invent their plans for the year. Amongst them, the Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode decided to schedule its usual Haute Couture Week digitally, on an exclusive online platform.   Nostalgic surrealism meets...
Hiroshi Fujiwara Designs Moncler's Latest Collection
By Rebecca Hitchon
Italian luxury brand Moncler rolled out today a new collection designed in collaboration with...
By Rebecca Hitchon
Italian luxury brand Moncler rolled out today a new collection designed in collaboration with globally influential streetwear designer and Japanese hip hop DJ Hiroshi Fujiwara."I wanted to create a new standard, delivering the message that Moncler loves the mountain, which is where the story...
Italian luxury brand Moncler rolled out today a new collection designed in collaboration with globally influential streetwear designer and Japanese hip hop DJ Hiroshi Fujiwara."I wanted to create a new standard, delivering the message that Moncler loves the mountain, which is where the story started," said Fujiwara about the 7 Moncler Fragment Hiroshi Fujiwara collection. This message is...
Kering Sets New Biodiversity Targets
By Alice Ierace
Global luxury group Kering has announced a dedicated biodiversity strategy with a series of new...
By Alice Ierace
Global luxury group Kering has announced a dedicated biodiversity strategy with a series of new targets in order to achieve a 'net positive' impact on biodiversity by 2025.Aligned with its long-term commitment to sustainability, the group’s new biodiversity strategy outlines steps to not only...
Global luxury group Kering has announced a dedicated biodiversity strategy with a series of new targets in order to achieve a 'net positive' impact on biodiversity by 2025.Aligned with its long-term commitment to sustainability, the group’s new biodiversity strategy outlines steps to not only minimize biodiversity loss across its global supply chains but also to support nature and create net...
ALIITA: A Sparkling Family Affair
By Elisa Carassai
Family affairs are known to be a tradition amongst Italian fashion brands. The Missoni's, the...
By Elisa Carassai
Family affairs are known to be a tradition amongst Italian fashion brands. The Missoni's, the Fendi's, the Ferragamo's and the Castiglioni's, are just a few of the renown names that come to mind when thinking of the fashion empires that keep it in the family. One of these is Aliita, the jewellery...
Family affairs are known to be a tradition amongst Italian fashion brands. The Missoni's, the Fendi's, the Ferragamo's and the Castiglioni's, are just a few of the renown names that come to mind when thinking of the fashion empires that keep it in the family. One of these is Aliita, the jewellery brand established by Venezuelan-born and Milan-based designer Cynthia Vilchez Castiglioni with the...
Loewe Releases Divine-Inspired Collection
By Alice Ierace
Loewe has released its limited-edition Divine collection, honouring drag queen and actor...
By Alice Ierace
Loewe has released its limited-edition Divine collection, honouring drag queen and actor Divine. “[Divine] was absolutely out of the ordinary. He lived an intense life as a man, performer, character and as a body. For me, it is the embodiment of the principle of self-determination,” explained...
Loewe has released its limited-edition Divine collection, honouring drag queen and actor Divine. “[Divine] was absolutely out of the ordinary. He lived an intense life as a man, performer, character and as a body. For me, it is the embodiment of the principle of self-determination,” explained Jonathan Anderson, creative director of the house.The collection consists primarily of three t-shirts...
H&M Launches New CHIMI Collab
By Rebecca Hitchon
H&M has announced a collaboration with Stockholm-based eyewear brand CHIMI for a summer menswear...
By Rebecca Hitchon
By Rebecca Hitchon
H&M has announced a collaboration with Stockholm-based eyewear brand CHIMI for a summer menswear collection. The CHIMI x H&M collection, which became exclusively available on the H&M website earlier this month, marks CHIMI’s first venture into menswear, after gaining success among the...
H&M has announced a collaboration with Stockholm-based eyewear brand CHIMI for a summer menswear collection. The CHIMI x H&M collection, which became exclusively available on the H&M website earlier this month, marks CHIMI’s first venture into menswear, after gaining success among the Insta-generation for their “inclusive, fun, progressive” sunglasses designs, in the words of Creative Director...