How fashion’s future is being shaped by its latest crop of talent

Over the past couple of seasons, London Fashion Week has gone from being a showcase of established names and brands to a stomping ground for fresh, young, and, notably, just graduated talent. Central Saint Martins has long showcased its MA students’ work during the Autumn/Winter season; now there is London College of Fashion, which went on the eve of the biannual showcase and the University of Westminster.



Sheryn Akiki and Goom Heo at the Central Saint Martins MA Fall/Winter 2019 show in London. Photo by Regis Colin Berthelier for NOWFASHION.


This now means that day one of London Fashion Week is actually quite a lot more interesting than it has ever traditionally been. The lure of newness, ambition, and excitement is at its core as aspiring students set out about their careers and take their first bows.


Sheryn Akiki and Goom Heo, crowned joint winners of the L’Oréal Professional prize at the Central Saint Martins show, in that respect might then be names to watch out for in the future, commended as they were by judge and buyer director of concept store Machine-A Stavros Karelis, for embracing diversity and a sense of self.


Collectively, though, there was a new mood and direction brewing: fresh ideas from what will become the future of the industry. Here’s what stood out.


Tailoring Takes Off



Xiaonan's collection at the London College of Fashion Fall/Winter 2019 show in London. Photos: Courtesy of PR.


The trickle-down effect of tailoring, which is currently exploding among the international menswear and womenswear collections, has already begun to make its mark among the student community. At London College of Fashion, no longer was there all that layering nonsense of non-clothes and non-shapes and non-silhouettes. Instead, there was an overarching lean towards serene and precise tailoring coupled with drapery for clean and professional-looking pieces. Xiaonan presented an especially strong collection with outfits pieced together almost like a paper doll. And a sleek high-neck navy puffa was the look to zoom in on from Yooju.  

Erogenous Zones



Eduardo Vegas' collection at the University of Westminster BA Fall/Winter 2019 show in London. Photos by Gio Staiano for NOWFASHION.


It began on Thursday night with LCF’s Danyuan Chen showing a dress slit below the bust to create a peekaboo natural cup and continued to Westminster for Eduardo Vegas’ codpieces and corsets, then expanded rapidly among the collections of Central Saint Martins’ students for more codpieces (one of the winning collections), nipple highlighters, and bust cups. Erogenous zones are proving to be very inspirational right now. It’s perhaps hardly surprising given that fashion spent so long hiding under layers of hybrid clothes – of course we want to reclaim our bodies and designers seem now more than happy to help us show them off.


Best in Show



Nensi Dojaka's collection at the Central Saint Martins MA Fall/Winter 2019 show in London. Photos by Regis Colin Berthelier for NOWFASHION.


It’s a funny coincidence that the strongest and most developed collections from Westminster were both infused with a blue colour palette: Glenn Wigham dived into a maritime and nautical theme for a sailor-style collection that riffed on everything from the sailor hats to buoys and netting, map prints and traditional wide-leg trousers; while Louisa Young combined blue transparent capes and shapes which came covered with life drawing illustrations on top (another one for the erogenous zones category), red lace underwear on show beneath. And at Central Saint Martins, it was Nensi Dojaka’s little sexy sheer dresses, wisps of things, all dishevelled, some with cycling shorts, that had whiffs of early Christopher Kane about them. A cool, seemingly simple but focused idea.  


SHARE
  • Facebook
  • Twitter
  • Pinterest
SIMILAR ARTICLES
Shanghai: Tech and Tribal Culture
By Jing Zhang
In a swish of Balenciaga jumpers, Gucci tees, and doll-like Chinese KOLs live streaming to their...
By Jing Zhang
In a swish of Balenciaga jumpers, Gucci tees, and doll-like Chinese KOLs live streaming to their fans on their phones, Shanghai Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2020 is coming to a close. It was a week of sunshine, rainstorms, and blustering winds, as buyers, media, and fashionistas traversed between...
In a swish of Balenciaga jumpers, Gucci tees, and doll-like Chinese KOLs live streaming to their fans on their phones, Shanghai Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2020 is coming to a close. It was a week of sunshine, rainstorms, and blustering winds, as buyers, media, and fashionistas traversed between Xintiandi (home to shows on the main official schedule) and the Labelhood runway platform – this time...
How Shanghai Could Change Fashion
By Gianluca Cantaro
When you are in Shanghai, the only thing you need to worry about is always keeping your phone...
By Gianluca Cantaro
By Gianluca Cantaro
When you are in Shanghai, the only thing you need to worry about is always keeping your phone charged and connected – as everything passes through these devices, and without it you are lost. Cash no longer circulates; the QR code pays everything. This, of course, offers more control on...
When you are in Shanghai, the only thing you need to worry about is always keeping your phone charged and connected – as everything passes through these devices, and without it you are lost. Cash no longer circulates; the QR code pays everything. This, of course, offers more control on transactions and, I guess, fewer tax evasion problems (at least for shopping). This is one aspect of the...
Lindbergh Film to Premiere in Milan
By Sofia Celeste
Milan’s Fashion Film Festival will unveil “Peter Lindbergh: Women’s Stories” at Milan’s Anteo...
By Sofia Celeste
Milan’s Fashion Film Festival will unveil “Peter Lindbergh: Women’s Stories” at Milan’s Anteo Cinema on November 10th.“Engaging and intimate, this film depicts the German photographer and features Naomi Campbell, [his wife] Astrid Lindbergh, and Helga Polzin,” organizers said Tuesday.The...
Milan’s Fashion Film Festival will unveil “Peter Lindbergh: Women’s Stories” at Milan’s Anteo Cinema on November 10th.“Engaging and intimate, this film depicts the German photographer and features Naomi Campbell, [his wife] Astrid Lindbergh, and Helga Polzin,” organizers said Tuesday.The Lindbergh documentary was directed by Jean-Michel Vecchiet, who also depicted the life of Jean-Michel...
Sophia Kokosalaki Dies
By Jessica Bumpus
The Greek fashion designer Sophia Kokosalaki has died. News of the London-based designer’s death...
By Jessica Bumpus
By Jessica Bumpus
The Greek fashion designer Sophia Kokosalaki has died. News of the London-based designer’s death was reported by the culture minister for Greece, Lina Mendoni, on Monday."It is extremely sad when a young person dies, a creative spirit, a dynamic and self-made woman who starred in the harsh and...
The Greek fashion designer Sophia Kokosalaki has died. News of the London-based designer’s death was reported by the culture minister for Greece, Lina Mendoni, on Monday."It is extremely sad when a young person dies, a creative spirit, a dynamic and self-made woman who starred in the harsh and competitive world of international fashion for a 20-year period," she said Kokosalaki, who had dressed...
Decoding Fashion's 2.0 Buying Trends
By Anissa Draa
In an ever-changing digital age and saturated luxury industry, modern-day customers who shop for...
By Anissa Draa
In an ever-changing digital age and saturated luxury industry, modern-day customers who shop for designer clothes and accessories – both on- and offline – are constantly on the look-out for authenticity and want to be engaged in new, unique ways. Anissa Draa, e-buyer at French department store...
In an ever-changing digital age and saturated luxury industry, modern-day customers who shop for designer clothes and accessories – both on- and offline – are constantly on the look-out for authenticity and want to be engaged in new, unique ways. Anissa Draa, e-buyer at French department store Printemps, discusses the status quo of fashion buying and its challenges and what it takes to perfect...
Beauty Built on AI
By Sofia Celeste
Interview with Cherry Pick’s Justin Stewart Now that the first artificial intelligence-engineered...
By Sofia Celeste
By Sofia Celeste
Interview with Cherry Pick’s Justin Stewart Now that the first artificial intelligence-engineered fashion collections are already on the market, there is no better time than the present for the beauty industry to dive in head first. Yoox, Amazon, Alibaba, and fast fashion retailers like H&M and...
Interview with Cherry Pick’s Justin Stewart Now that the first artificial intelligence-engineered fashion collections are already on the market, there is no better time than the present for the beauty industry to dive in head first. Yoox, Amazon, Alibaba, and fast fashion retailers like H&M and Zara have all invested heavily in artificial intelligence, an innovation that has been at the core of...
American Shoppers Stimulate EU Retail
By NOWFASHION
The latest edition of the Planet Shopper Index (PSI) – a quarterly rundown of the top 25 most...
By NOWFASHION
The latest edition of the Planet Shopper Index (PSI) – a quarterly rundown of the top 25 most lucrative source markets for European retailers – reveals that international shopper activity across Europe accelerated in the second quarter of the year, mainly driven by US shopper activity and a...
The latest edition of the Planet Shopper Index (PSI) – a quarterly rundown of the top 25 most lucrative source markets for European retailers – reveals that international shopper activity across Europe accelerated in the second quarter of the year, mainly driven by US shopper activity and a bounce-back of visiting nations’ currencies against the pound and euro.  In fact, a strengthened dollar...
Shanghai FW Kicks Off
By Jing Zhang
Outside of the four major fashion weeks, Shanghai has emerged as one of the most important...
By Jing Zhang
By Jing Zhang
Outside of the four major fashion weeks, Shanghai has emerged as one of the most important fashion hubs in the East. Though the country’s most established names like Masha Ma and Uma Wang prefer to show in Europe, Shanghai Fashion Week provides a platform for young, independent labels such as...
Outside of the four major fashion weeks, Shanghai has emerged as one of the most important fashion hubs in the East. Though the country’s most established names like Masha Ma and Uma Wang prefer to show in Europe, Shanghai Fashion Week provides a platform for young, independent labels such as Xuzhi, Oude Wang, and Shushu/Tong. It's also an occasion for foreign journalists and buyers to discover...