Julien MacDonald Ready To Wear Fall Winter 2013 London
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Julien Macdonald channeled the razzle-dazzle high energy of Las Vegas (evening naming his dresses after the casino city's landmarks), throwing feathers, glitter, sequins and crystals into the shaker and tumbling out a run of spray-on, after-dark glamour-charged confections built to distract players from their game. The designer built up to the high drama, opening with a sporty knee-length silver dress with all-over metal chain embroidery and white side panels resembling oversized fishnet. On its heels were skintight bodysuits in bionic stretch lace mixed with velvet yarns and a run of cool body-con dresses that nipped at Balmain’s ankles, with embroidered stripes recalling zebra skin and a light rock ‘n’ roll all-over dusting of swishing gold chains that added nice movement.


Gradually, skin played as big a role as the decor, with plunging V-necks, open backs and sheer panels running down the sides of slinky gowns, banishing the need for undies (body warmers these were not). Most of the gowns appeared to have been sprayed on and the embellishments came arranged in intricate geometric formations (i.e. a lot of artisanal handiwork).


Macdonald can at times slide into tacky territory but this for the most part stayed on the good side of bad taste, and provided good old fashioned entertainment both for the body beautiful uptown party girls the designer targets, and the wallflowers in the audience. It also served as fittingly lavish calling card for the designer’s new bespoke Atelier Collection, offering a taste of the technical savoir-faire of Macdonald’s atelier at his townhouse headquarters on London’s Savile Row.



- Katya Foreman
 

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