The massive hand painted set of the Louis Vuitton show swirled like an oil slick in shades of cream, black, grey, beige and cobalt blue. Crashing up to cover the giant backdrop, running down across the catwalk and splashing up and over the spectator’s seating. It made for a spectacular set up for designer Kim Jones’s fall/winter 2014 show.
This massive art piece was in fact a reproduction of an aerial view of the Atacama desert in South America. But instead of taking the house on a sand swept trek inspired by the region, Jones kept this collection grounded in an urban environment. Where tribal robes become large striped scarves flowing down the shoulder of the models dressed in slim suits. Animal pelts are alluded to the v-neck sweater’s with long hair hand woven alpaca fur panels or reversible shearling jackets. And a hint of those unmistakable Peruvian blankets can be gleamed in some of Jones’s broad striped coats.
The show was also the debut of a cool new look from the brand’s classic Damier canvas. Jones reworked the iconic checked pattern into some attractive cobalt shades. This new hue popped up on the catwalk on the brand’s Keepall travel bag and the Atoll travel clutch. The house must know it has a winner on its hands with this easy to love shade because both bags are already available to purchase online, with a roll out in stores starting at the end of the month.
As always, Louis Vuitton menswear is all about stealth wealth. To a fashion neophyte it would be hard to know if a simple knit top and matching lounge pants are actually crafted using a rare wool called extreme-vicuña. Although fans of Jones's work would know he is partial to this particular material. Then there are the silk pieces that just happen to be lined in chinchilla and lets not forget the functional windbreaker cut from the skin of a python. Even the classic silk evening suits was given an elegant update when the designer used a degrade stripe effect.
If this collection felt slightly understated, that won't matter one iota once a man slips into any of these ultra luxe looks.