Vulnerable Masculinity and Versatile Workwear
By Elisabeta Tudor
While the first two days of the Paris' Fall/Winter 2020 menswear shows showed that several brands...
By Elisabeta Tudor
While the first two days of the Paris' Fall/Winter 2020 menswear shows showed that several brands were turning to more formal styling, this third day was marked by a less assertive, more fluid take on masculinity.  Chinese designer Sean Suen explored fluid tailoring infused with dark romance. His...
While the first two days of the Paris' Fall/Winter 2020 menswear shows showed that several brands were turning to more formal styling, this third day was marked by a less assertive, more fluid take on masculinity.  Chinese designer Sean Suen explored fluid tailoring infused with dark romance. His light workwear pieces came with a hint of sophisticated tailoring. They were characterized by a...
Virgil Abloh’s Tailored Louis Vuitton
By Gianluca Cantaro
The power of today's communication and branding are tools...
By Gianluca Cantaro
The power of today's communication and branding are tools that big Maisons like Louis Vuitton have mastered and the hype around the acclaimed monogram boosted by name of the designer, Virgil Abloh from Off-White, affected their men's line. Since Abloh...
The power of today's communication and branding are tools that big Maisons like Louis Vuitton have mastered and the hype around the acclaimed monogram boosted by name of the designer, Virgil Abloh from Off-White, affected their men's line. Since Abloh started his master plan and developed the company’s sampling, he has turned the brand into a...
Romanticism in Tailoring by Valentino
By Gianluca Cantaro
The delicate music and voice of Fka Twigs's live performance gave the Valentino show a peculiar...
By Gianluca Cantaro
The delicate music and voice of Fka Twigs's live performance gave the Valentino show a peculiar atmosphere, emphasising romanticism – the main theme of the collection. The tailoring approach that Pierpaolo Piccioli used for jackets, coats, suits and sportswear was stiff and structured. The...
The delicate music and voice of Fka Twigs's live performance gave the Valentino show a peculiar atmosphere, emphasising romanticism – the main theme of the collection. The tailoring approach that Pierpaolo Piccioli used for jackets, coats, suits and sportswear was stiff and structured. The romanticism aspect was expressed by fluid lines mixed with a distinct design: the jackets were opened on...
Formalwear and Future Nostalgia
By Marta Represa & Elisabeta Tudor
Day 2 of Paris Fashion Week kicked off at a derelict building on the 15eme arrondissement with...
By Marta Represa & Elisabeta Tudor
By Marta Represa & Elisabeta Tudor
Day 2 of Paris Fashion Week kicked off at a derelict building on the 15eme arrondissement with the Études show. The Parisian collective has made a name for itself by cleverly anticipating trends ad infusing them with their own identity, creating unpretentious, super covetable collections. If this...
Day 2 of Paris Fashion Week kicked off at a derelict building on the 15eme arrondissement with the Études show. The Parisian collective has made a name for itself by cleverly anticipating trends ad infusing them with their own identity, creating unpretentious, super covetable collections. If this season was no exception, that means we’re in for a tailoring comeback: pleated and tapered trousers...
In Milan Ideas Are Recycled
By Frédéric Martin-Bernard
The fashion industry is forever filled with good intentions. It embraces one cause after another....
By Frédéric Martin-Bernard
By Frédéric Martin-Bernard
The fashion industry is forever filled with good intentions. It embraces one cause after another. Yesterday, it was defending minorities. Today, it fights for the environment. At last week's Pitti Uomo in Florence, you could not even find one single exhibitor who didn't feature a garment crafted...
The fashion industry is forever filled with good intentions. It embraces one cause after another. Yesterday, it was defending minorities. Today, it fights for the environment. At last week's Pitti Uomo in Florence, you could not even find one single exhibitor who didn't feature a garment crafted from eco-friendly or recycled fabrics — a garment that was produced in conditions respectful of...
By Gianluca Cantaro
Gucci abandoned the co-ed formula to go back to fashion week with a proper mens show (58 looks and only 10 were womenswear). "It's my fifth anniversary at the helm of Gucci and I wanted to go back and rediscover all my...
Gucci abandoned the co-ed formula to go back to fashion week with a proper mens show (58 looks and only 10 were womenswear). "It's my fifth anniversary at the helm of Gucci and I wanted to go back and rediscover all my collections," explained Alessandro Michele after the show. "My first collection also happened to...
In Paris '70s Revival and Back-to-Nature Movement
By Marta Represa & Elisabeta Tudor
Sankuanz, Paris Fashion Week’s official opening act this season, moved away from his streetwear...
By Marta Represa & Elisabeta Tudor
By Marta Represa & Elisabeta Tudor
Sankuanz, Paris Fashion Week’s official opening act this season, moved away from his streetwear bread-and-butter without completely abandoning it — after all, the brand is among Hypebeast’s and Ssense’s darlings. Chinese-born designer Shangguan Zhe chose to start his show with a series of sharp...
Sankuanz, Paris Fashion Week’s official opening act this season, moved away from his streetwear bread-and-butter without completely abandoning it — after all, the brand is among Hypebeast’s and Ssense’s darlings. Chinese-born designer Shangguan Zhe chose to start his show with a series of sharp moiré suits for men and women. They were part of an eclectic collection with punk, cyberpunk,...
Menswear on The Rise as Gucci and Ferragamo Return
By Sofia Celeste
Amid a relaxed fashion week that opened with the 25th...
By Sofia Celeste
Amid a relaxed fashion week that opened with the 25th anniversary of Dsquared2 and closed with the return of Gucci to the Milan menswear calendar, designers were upbeat about the future of menswear.   According to a report released by market...
Amid a relaxed fashion week that opened with the 25th anniversary of Dsquared2 and closed with the return of Gucci to the Milan menswear calendar, designers were upbeat about the future of menswear.   According to a report released by market research group Euromonitor International, the menswear sector is forecast to grow 22 percent by 2024 and...
Giorgio Armani's Soft Embrace
By Gianluca Cantaro
The winter cold outside naturally puts human beings on the hunt for the comfort of soft and...
By Gianluca Cantaro
By Gianluca Cantaro
The winter cold outside naturally puts human beings on the hunt for the comfort of soft and natural fabrics. Precious wools, shearlings and hi-tech performance items are the shells, in which, we long to nestle. Giorgio Armani's collection evoked this cosiness by making an ode to tactile feelings....
The winter cold outside naturally puts human beings on the hunt for the comfort of soft and natural fabrics. Precious wools, shearlings and hi-tech performance items are the shells, in which, we long to nestle. Giorgio Armani's collection evoked this cosiness by making an ode to tactile feelings. Everything was light yet warm, the volumes were big but never bulky. “I thought about a men’s...
Milan Celebrates A Variety of Dichotomous Flavours
By Elisa Carassai
Luca Magliano isn’t afraid of showing his dark side. This season, his menswear show was a warped...
By Elisa Carassai
Luca Magliano isn’t afraid of showing his dark side. This season, his menswear show was a warped ode to nightmares, a Fellinian-inspired Mediterranean twist on creatures of the night and provincial creatures of habits, set in a Milanese smokey room in the Navigli district. “We revisited our...
Luca Magliano isn’t afraid of showing his dark side. This season, his menswear show was a warped ode to nightmares, a Fellinian-inspired Mediterranean twist on creatures of the night and provincial creatures of habits, set in a Milanese smokey room in the Navigli district. “We revisited our classic silhouettes by using materials typically associated with womenswear such as viscose crepe in...
Milan Becomes A Sustainable Hub
By Sofia Celeste
The organizers of ready-to-wear fair WHITE MILANO staged...
By Sofia Celeste
The organizers of ready-to-wear fair WHITE MILANO staged the world’s first high-end sustainable fashion trade show here, in an event that unfurled between January 11 and 12 at Milan’s BASE location in the city’s district.  Dubbed WSM (WHITE...
The organizers of ready-to-wear fair WHITE MILANO staged the world’s first high-end sustainable fashion trade show here, in an event that unfurled between January 11 and 12 at Milan’s BASE location in the city’s district.  Dubbed WSM (WHITE SUSTAINABLE MILANO), the fair was attended by 4000 visitors and a noted presence of Asian buyers, WHITE said....
Prada Redesigns the Men Wardrobe
By Gianluca Cantaro
Prada's show is always awaited from the fashion world, much like the words of an oracle that will...
By Gianluca Cantaro
By Gianluca Cantaro
Prada's show is always awaited from the fashion world, much like the words of an oracle that will set the trends for the next season, but there was a period in the recent past where this gift was a bit blurred. For this men's collection (starting from last September women‘s and the MiuMiu shows)...
Prada's show is always awaited from the fashion world, much like the words of an oracle that will set the trends for the next season, but there was a period in the recent past where this gift was a bit blurred. For this men's collection (starting from last September women‘s and the MiuMiu shows) La Signora Miuccia gave back the major fashion statement everybody was begging for. This season, she...
In Milan Classic Tailoring Meets Young Quirkiness
By Elisa Carassai
On the second day of Milan Mens Fashion Week, a series of younger brands gave a twist to their...
By Elisa Carassai
On the second day of Milan Mens Fashion Week, a series of younger brands gave a twist to their offering. At Caruso, creative director Aldo Maria Camillo reinforced his legacy of pragmatic masculine style. Every season, the designer presents unmistakably concrete and qualitatively noteworthy looks...
On the second day of Milan Mens Fashion Week, a series of younger brands gave a twist to their offering. At Caruso, creative director Aldo Maria Camillo reinforced his legacy of pragmatic masculine style. Every season, the designer presents unmistakably concrete and qualitatively noteworthy looks ranging from tailored separates to leather coats and trousers. This season, classic tailoring was...
In Milan A Debate on Form over Function
By Elisa Carassai
“We all need means of supplementing our...
By Elisa Carassai
“We all need means of supplementing our natural capabilities since nature is indifferent, inhuman (extra-human), and inclement; we are born naked and with insufficient armour,” stated modernist architect Le Corbusier in his book The Decorative Art of...
“We all need means of supplementing our natural capabilities since nature is indifferent, inhuman (extra-human), and inclement; we are born naked and with insufficient armour,” stated modernist architect Le Corbusier in his book The Decorative Art of Today, in 1987. Considered to be one of the most groundbreaking and influential critiques on the world...
Armani's Message to New Generations
By Gianluca Cantaro
For the Emporio Armani, Italian icon Giorgio Armani put...
By Gianluca Cantaro
For the Emporio Armani, Italian icon Giorgio Armani put out his statement about sustainability. “The capsule collection I presented at the end of the show was not a personal promotion for the new drop but a message for the World, as the urgency is real....
For the Emporio Armani, Italian icon Giorgio Armani put out his statement about sustainability. “The capsule collection I presented at the end of the show was not a personal promotion for the new drop but a message for the World, as the urgency is real. This is the starting point that will be developed in the other lines, ” explained the designer...