Gucci: The Art of Whimsical Seduction
By Jessica Bumpus
When it comes to seductive whimsy, Alessandro Michele is nailing it. Creative director at Gucci...
By Jessica Bumpus
When it comes to seductive whimsy, Alessandro Michele is nailing it. Creative director at Gucci since January 2015 (where he made a U-turn of a debut), the designer has so coined a look and reborn a house that it’s almost hard to think back before him. Before slippers and sequins, pussy-bows and...
When it comes to seductive whimsy, Alessandro Michele is nailing it. Creative director at Gucci since January 2015 (where he made a U-turn of a debut), the designer has so coined a look and reborn a house that it’s almost hard to think back before him. Before slippers and sequins, pussy-bows and pearls, before bejewelled hands with so many rings on so many fingers, and jaunty romanticism....
Milan: Message Me
By Jessica Bumpus
We might be here to see clothes, but that can sometimes take a backseat. It does for Vivienne...
By Jessica Bumpus
By Jessica Bumpus
We might be here to see clothes, but that can sometimes take a backseat. It does for Vivienne Westwood. You turn up to a collection, not to see its theme or inspiration per se – because she’s wonderfully coined that and has been doing so for years already – but to hear her latest manifesto, her...
We might be here to see clothes, but that can sometimes take a backseat. It does for Vivienne Westwood. You turn up to a collection, not to see its theme or inspiration per se – because she’s wonderfully coined that and has been doing so for years already – but to hear her latest manifesto, her political viewpoint, her latest gripe, her latest Eureka moment. Today she concentrated her efforts...
Gap Year Glam: Prada’s On Point
By Jessica Bumpus
When you think of Prada, you think of three things: the conceptual-crazy side of the designer’s...
By Jessica Bumpus
When you think of Prada, you think of three things: the conceptual-crazy side of the designer’s collections that the fashion industry all sit and try to decipher; her signature side (we all know what a Prada man and woman looks like by now); and what by today’s standards might well be termed...
When you think of Prada, you think of three things: the conceptual-crazy side of the designer’s collections that the fashion industry all sit and try to decipher; her signature side (we all know what a Prada man and woman looks like by now); and what by today’s standards might well be termed athleisure – but essentially the sportier side of the label.  Agility, utility and sport, that’s what...
Pitti Uomo: Two And A Half Men
By Elisabeta Tudor
The iconic Florentine menswear trade-show, as seen by Raffaello Napoleone, Raf Simons – and his...
By Elisabeta Tudor
By Elisabeta Tudor
The iconic Florentine menswear trade-show, as seen by Raffaello Napoleone, Raf Simons – and his collection's muse, Robert Mapplethorpe. What's new at Pitti Uomo? This time around, the well-established Italian trade-show had many exclusive events to offer at Fortezza da Basso in Florence,...
The iconic Florentine menswear trade-show, as seen by Raffaello Napoleone, Raf Simons – and his collection's muse, Robert Mapplethorpe. What's new at Pitti Uomo? This time around, the well-established Italian trade-show had many exclusive events to offer at Fortezza da Basso in Florence, including shows by Raf Simons, up-and-comer Gosha Rubchinskiy, Italian designers Lucio Vanotti and Fausto...
On With The Milan Show: Boys’ Bits & More
By Jessica Bumpus
When it comes to matters of fashion erogenous zones, the ankle seems to be high on Milan’s agenda...
By Jessica Bumpus
When it comes to matters of fashion erogenous zones, the ankle seems to be high on Milan’s agenda – both on and off the catwalk. A man can’t even make it down a Via or Piazza, past a security guard or PR without flashing them. Then only to sit down show-side and see somebody else trot on by with...
When it comes to matters of fashion erogenous zones, the ankle seems to be high on Milan’s agenda – both on and off the catwalk. A man can’t even make it down a Via or Piazza, past a security guard or PR without flashing them. Then only to sit down show-side and see somebody else trot on by with a very similar idea: cropped trousers are in. We clocked them at Jil Sander, Dolce & Gabbana, and...
Post-Punk: a legacy in London and beyond
By John-Michael O'Sullivan
This year, Britain celebrates two very different anniversaries. The first is the Queen’s 90th...
By John-Michael O'Sullivan
By John-Michael O'Sullivan
This year, Britain celebrates two very different anniversaries. The first is the Queen’s 90th birthday, marked midway through the London menswear schedule by an open-air lunch (held, inevitably, in pouring rain) for 10,000 rain-poncho wearing guests. The second is the fortieth anniversary of...
This year, Britain celebrates two very different anniversaries. The first is the Queen’s 90th birthday, marked midway through the London menswear schedule by an open-air lunch (held, inevitably, in pouring rain) for 10,000 rain-poncho wearing guests. The second is the fortieth anniversary of punk; the movement which galvanised Britain’s disaffected youth in the mid-Seventies, and has become one...
Girl Meets Boy's World
By Jessica Bumpus
As a woman in a menswear world this past week at LCM there have been no end of looks trotting...
By Jessica Bumpus
By Jessica Bumpus
As a woman in a menswear world this past week at LCM there have been no end of looks trotting down the runway that I have found myself wanting to swipe for myself. Yes, admittedly, there have actually been some womenswear options too, as there always are, but it was specifically the pieces...
As a woman in a menswear world this past week at LCM there have been no end of looks trotting down the runway that I have found myself wanting to swipe for myself. Yes, admittedly, there have actually been some womenswear options too, as there always are, but it was specifically the pieces sported by the boys for which I found myself compiling a mental shopping list.   Sibling menswear...
Fashion Week Is Dead: Long Live Fashion Week
By John-Michael O'Sullivan
At the far end of the Bayswater Road, just behind Kensington Palace, there’s a large expanse of...
By John-Michael O'Sullivan
At the far end of the Bayswater Road, just behind Kensington Palace, there’s a large expanse of green lawn known as Perks Field. It’s a quiet, calm piece of parkland, scattered with joggers and picnicking families. Twice a year, for the last few years – once in January, and then again in June –...
At the far end of the Bayswater Road, just behind Kensington Palace, there’s a large expanse of green lawn known as Perks Field. It’s a quiet, calm piece of parkland, scattered with joggers and picnicking families. Twice a year, for the last few years – once in January, and then again in June – it’s been taken over by Burberry’s vast show tent. But this week, for the first time in six seasons,...
Statements of Subversion
By Jessica Bumpus
Day three and LCM threw some great spanners in the works with JW Anderson starting us off with...
By Jessica Bumpus
By Jessica Bumpus
Day three and LCM threw some great spanners in the works with JW Anderson starting us off with his most subversive menswear collection yet: it was wearable! There were no too-hard-to-think about ideas here so much as there have been before. Men won’t be baffled by what they saw as much as they...
Day three and LCM threw some great spanners in the works with JW Anderson starting us off with his most subversive menswear collection yet: it was wearable! There were no too-hard-to-think about ideas here so much as there have been before. Men won’t be baffled by what they saw as much as they have been; they’ll want to wear it – and the girls will be clawing the bags off their shoulders. Here,...
Street Wars: the return of the suit
By John-Michael O'Sullivan
  Suit versus (track)suit; ever since it started in 2012, that opposition has become the...
By John-Michael O'Sullivan
By John-Michael O'Sullivan
  Suit versus (track)suit; ever since it started in 2012, that opposition has become the default shorthand to summarise London’s menswear event. Every season, the schedule is neatly split down the centre - old-school elegance on the one side, avant-garde rebellion on the other. Of late,...
  Suit versus (track)suit; ever since it started in 2012, that opposition has become the default shorthand to summarise London’s menswear event. Every season, the schedule is neatly split down the centre - old-school elegance on the one side, avant-garde rebellion on the other. Of late, however, it’s felt as though streetwear’s been gaining the upper hand. The rise of labels like Cottweiler,...
Nostalgia: Del Boy - Versailles - Nirvana
By Jessica Bumpus
Nostalgia, it’s a bit of a thing at LCM. Of course fashion goes hand in hand with it – that’s...
By Jessica Bumpus
Nostalgia, it’s a bit of a thing at LCM. Of course fashion goes hand in hand with it – that’s where we all get inspiration from at one point or another. So yesterday we had Bobby Abley plundering the Disney archive for Aladdin references; today Agi & Sam kicked things off with a collection that...
Nostalgia, it’s a bit of a thing at LCM. Of course fashion goes hand in hand with it – that’s where we all get inspiration from at one point or another. So yesterday we had Bobby Abley plundering the Disney archive for Aladdin references; today Agi & Sam kicked things off with a collection that riffed on homespun charm and had a hint of granny chic about it, playing with that magpie-dressing...
New Order: a tale of two cities
By John-Michael O'Sullivan
Over the last few seasons, something inevitable - and yet, till recently, unthinkable - has...
By John-Michael O'Sullivan
By John-Michael O'Sullivan
Over the last few seasons, something inevitable - and yet, till recently, unthinkable - has happened. London’s position as the fashion system’s unruly, volatile youngest sibling, bursting with energy and ideas, has been challenged. And, accustomed as the city is to defining itself against...
Over the last few seasons, something inevitable - and yet, till recently, unthinkable - has happened. London’s position as the fashion system’s unruly, volatile youngest sibling, bursting with energy and ideas, has been challenged. And, accustomed as the city is to defining itself against American commerce, Italian glitz, or French sophistication, the shift has provoked something of an identity...
LCM: Let’s Celebrate Men!
By Jessica Bumpus
The menswear schedule is slimmer; there’s no this name or that name showing (notably Alexander...
By Jessica Bumpus
By Jessica Bumpus
The menswear schedule is slimmer; there’s no this name or that name showing (notably Alexander McQueen, Tom Ford, Burberry): this is what has prefaced menswear this season – in all honesty a slight sense of negativity. Which seems a little odd, frankly. While womenswear seems to be experiencing a...
The menswear schedule is slimmer; there’s no this name or that name showing (notably Alexander McQueen, Tom Ford, Burberry): this is what has prefaced menswear this season – in all honesty a slight sense of negativity. Which seems a little odd, frankly. While womenswear seems to be experiencing a little bit of a wobble, menswear seems to be the most solid and exciting option right now,...
Next big thing: British Fashion's Future
By John-Michael O'Sullivan
For the best part of the last decade, London’s status as (revived) world fashion capital has come...
By John-Michael O'Sullivan
By John-Michael O'Sullivan
For the best part of the last decade, London’s status as (revived) world fashion capital has come firmly stamped with the initials C.S.M. Led by its formidable professor Louise Wilson, Central Saint Martins’ MA course in Fashion Design became a byword for wildly inventive, deeply compelling...
For the best part of the last decade, London’s status as (revived) world fashion capital has come firmly stamped with the initials C.S.M. Led by its formidable professor Louise Wilson, Central Saint Martins’ MA course in Fashion Design became a byword for wildly inventive, deeply compelling visions, and its graduates - Christopher Kane, Sarah Burton, Mary Katrantzou, Roksanda Ilincic, Phoebe...
Dior’s Downton
By Jessica Bumpus
The big fashion question that's still left unanswered is: who's filling the Dior job ever since...
By Jessica Bumpus
By Jessica Bumpus
The big fashion question that's still left unanswered is: who's filling the Dior job ever since Raf Simons left it up for grabs last October? We still don't know for certain, but what we do know is that it's not letting Dior get distracted. A full-on Dior takeover came to town yesterday as a...
The big fashion question that's still left unanswered is: who's filling the Dior job ever since Raf Simons left it up for grabs last October? We still don't know for certain, but what we do know is that it's not letting Dior get distracted. A full-on Dior takeover came to town yesterday as a whammy of events were celebrated: its new and stunning flagship store on Bond Street (four stories...