Marni Menswear Fall Winter 2015 Milan
Slideshow

Consuelo Castiglioni marches to the beat of her own drum. While all of menswear is on a casual dandy kick, she looked to the 1970s for cues in envisaging the building blocks of her winter collection.

Full bloom hibiscus and magnolia printed habotai Japanese silk shirts recalled old Hollywood scenes and set the tone for the collection that also focused very much on fur.

Outerwear looks relied heavily on alpaca and long sheepskin for cardigan coats, vests and scarves. And Castiglioni was able to fashion those furs into something that resembled fox or mink - both in terms of aesthetic and touch.

Ready-to-wear looks included tailored items like stiff, creased, double knit wool pants, hunting jackets and peak lapel blazers. Loose wool ties draped over plain oxford shirts and matched with wool/linen mix cargo pants.

A bonding technique was employed onto pants and military jackets - leather stripes were hidden on the inside of flaps that outlined wool pant legs and shoulders.

A multi-colored alpaca intarsia torso was layered over a felt coat - a piece that is typical of Castiglioni's affinity for the past and her attempt to address the future.

In terms of footwear and accessories, we didn't know what era or world we were in. A hodgepodge of old, new, tech and heritage; the array included everything from exaggerated tasseled golf shoes, slip on, front-zip boots lined with shearling, tech backpacks with lone stripes to furry totes.

Marni said overall Castiglioni aimed for a progressive tone. She achieved that and a collection that expressed her non-conformist message loud and clear.

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