On Sunday morning any editor who thought they would be able to ease into a day filled with big name brands presenting their collections with a peaceful Marni show got quite a bit of a wake up call. Designer Consuelo Castiglioni held nothing back this season. Producing a collection that was one of the strongest seen so far in Milan.
Castiglioni moved at a quick pace, as if she was in a hurry to expel all of her ideas out onto the catwalk, and each one of those ideas had an amped up energy.
Proportions were exaggerated. Neoprene skirts and tops came with wide ruffle fronts. Tops and coats were given dropped shoulder sleeves that rounded out and then tapered down, and outerwear featured oversized fur hoods.
Colors and prints were unapologetically bold. Voluminous sporty pieces with prominent industrial zippers showed up in fire engine red, mint green and hot pink. While abstract geometric pattered ensembles crafted out of silk and cut in loose and long shapes- smartly held tight to the waist with wide elastic belts to control the volume - accented their motifs in vibrant contrasting shades. And all the capacious fur coats died in colorful strips were seriously audacious displays of luxury.
As for embellishments the designer didn’t hold back on those either. She covered the front of a series of her skirts in rows of feathers of different shapes and sizes that changed in volume as they finished at the hemline. Her colorful pointy toe flat shoes (its all about pointy to flat shoes next winter) came tricked out with a gold metal bar across the toe. And a silver spun-out paint effect elevated a simple blouson jacket to a new level of sophistication.
The brazen confidence of this collection was breathtaking. Castiglioni laid her talents bare before the fashion world and they were not found wanting in any way. It was a tour de force collection that bet big and won even bigger.