No one in the fashion industry can argue with the fact that Consuelo Castiglioni is on a serious roll at Marni. Again, on the penultimate day of Milan Fashion Week, the unassuming designer produced one of the strongest, modern and beautiful collections of the week.
This was a streamlined show that had a razor sharp precision to its execution. The effect was achieved by Castiglioni’s clever choice to use thick fabrics that she then placed, almost like paneling, over the models’ bodies. Different sections were left open so that the body could be perceived between the laths of fabric of a skirt, or the color of tailored trousers would break though the side openings of a long sleek coat. Often it almost felt as if the zen-like construction of an ensemble was only being held to the body by one of the wide leather or snake skin belts the designer used.
The minimalistic silhouette, that had just a whiff of the 1940s about it, was further enhanced with the astute introduction of fur into the works. Strokeable patches appeared as pockets on skirts, a wide band at the waist, furry sleeves on coats or crafted into luxurious long sleeveless tunics.
The other strong story of this architectural show was the introduction of a number of matelassé floral jacquard pieces. They stuck to the same prominent streamlined silhouette of the show, but added a frisson of sensuality into the mix with tops and dresses cut away at the back to expose the body. Also, tying these garments up with a bow at the neck, its ribbons caressing the skin, helped to accentuate the suggestiveness of the ensembles.
This was a pure and empowering show. The clothing had a strength that was irrefutable, and will undeniably draw even more followers to the Marni brand next season.