Marni Ready To Wear Resort 2014 Paris
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Sportswear was a main reference during the latest spring-summer 2014 menswear shows – and it also looks like it has taken its toll on womenswear as well. As always, the sometimes subtle and other times very obvious mingling of feminine and masculine elements were the designers favorite pastime, but this season some of them went even further and injected an ostentatious sporty nonchalance to their usual style inventory.


Marni's head-designer Consuelo Castiglioni jumped on this trendy train as well, for her resort 2014 collection was all about a sophisticated business woman that sometimes let herself go with slouchy active-wear looks. Several silhouettes suggested the masculine and feminine duality expressed through straight and curved lines – think boxy, rounded cinched tops worn with men's Bermudas and pants.


Then a bit of 70s and a touch of romanticism magnified floral motives adorning cinched 3/4-sleeved cotton and linen blouses and elongated pencil skirts, while wool crepe ribbons were the guiding thread of the collection and used to set a high-waist. A rich blue and copper hued brocade raglan coat was particularly outstanding – definitely a timeless piece that could set the tone of Marni's upcoming spring-summer 2014 collection.


But the most worth watching silhouettes were without a hesitation, the ones that obviously – or let's say even provocatively – replaced the business tailoring with active-wear. Take an oversize belted trench coat worn with an elongated white turtleneck, side-striped sweatpants and Birkenstock inspired sandals. It was not about injecting sportswear into a collection anymore, but about imposing it to the detriment of the brand's usual feminine signature style. It could even be perceived as a very fugly silhouette: it broke with the feminine fit and with any type of silhouette construction that could be spotted in the rest of the collection. Daring but desirable.

- Elisabeta Tudor
 

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