When the customary “fashionably late” half-hour between the official start time and when a show usually gets underway came and went, those at the second Marni show today began to grumble. Then the news trickled down that the delay was due to a loss of power. Renzo Rosso, who bought a major stake in the company last year, began to chuckle as he waited patiently in the front row. But, in an all white show space and a ceiling filled with windows, letting in a flood of natural light, designer Consuelo Castiglioni finally decided she actually didn’t need any artifice for her collection to get its message across. She just sent it out to the sounds of an audience hushed into silence by its beauty.
This was a show about sculptural lightness. One that played out gracefully across a collection that moved from fluid pants and open back tops, to sarong-like skirts and outfits cut in oversized floral prints with just a slightly sinister sensation in their black outlined silhouette.
A real sense of modern femininity was felt throughout the ensembles. The way Castiglioni played with ruffles to add a frothy volume to jackets, and then expanded on the idea (and also linking it to the floral prints at the start of the show) by recreating the same textural appeal in skirts and tops festooned with fluttering fabric petals. A concept that finally morphed into blooms crafted from crystals and plastic sequins to finish the show.
As much as the highly embellished pieces in this collection were impressive to behold, it was a triptych of outfits cut from black cloth that featured a smattering of modest flowers in pink or mint green, which featured pleated silk inserts down the back or in the center of a skirt, that caused a bit of a stir in the silent show space.