"It was about movement and fluidity and suspension," said designer Consuelo Castiglioni backstage after her Marni show on the penultimate day of Milan Fashion Week. "But at the same time, architectural in the cut of the dresses, but still fluid," she added in a rush.
All of those sentiments came across beautifully as the models, their hair pulled back in sweet low ponytails and eyelashes that reached right up to their eyebrows, nonchalantly walked the concrete catwalk to the reggae melody of Nina Simone singing the song “Baltimore” on the soundtrack. Their ensembles – color block layers of garments in primary hues – projected a graphic and upbeat demeanor.
Castiglioni chose to go with roomy silhouettes that featured full pants with flyaway side panels; apron slip dresses in stiff yet ample leathers worn over long sleeve silk tops; and asymmetrical stratified dresses in different fabrics, colors, and finishes. The combination of Lego bright hues and the geometric order of lace polka dot overlays and wide mesh fabrics, or alternatively a bold leaf pattern print, brought needed vitality to all the generous shapes.
Accessories, too, were designed to take up space and define their environment. Supersized totes echoed the bright color palette of the clothing or were cut in strokable fur; glossy leaf earring tickled the models shoulders and their angular sunglasses exaggerated the eyes.
With so much going on in terms of colors, fabric weights, and textiles, it was impressive to experience how Castiglioni was able to control the clothing so that they were both fluid and formidable. But also pretty fabulous too.