Meet Next Season's It Item

Call it a rugby shirt on the pitch or a polo shirt off the pitch, whatever your preference of said shirt, or something between the two, is headed for a comeback in your Autumn/Winter 2019 wardrobe. Just ask one of London’s newest and most interesting labels, Symonds Pearmain, who made its debut outside of Fashion East this season, and add to that Wales Bonner and Riccardo Tisci at Burberry and enough said. 

 

Burberry Fall/Winter 2019 show in London. Photo: Courtesy of PR.

What originated in polo shirt speak as a short-sleeved knitted shirt with a turn-down collar that stayed in place during a game, and moved onto becoming associated with leisurewear during the Thirties, and what in rugby shirt speak is known as being a casualwear riff on the striped varieties worn at matches, has emerged as London Fashion Week’s biggest surprise yet. 

 

Perhaps it’s because it’s a timely but not too severe move on from sportswear, a little bit more sophisticated, on the smart-casual side of things, yet still with that active sentiment, that it’s coming back into style. In the wake of Hedi Slimane’s return to real clothes, the rugby shirt or the polo shirt has a little more meaning than a T-shirt right now; it has a little more fit, a little more nuance and certainly one that feels refreshing aesthetically. 

 

Left: WALES BONNER Fall/Winter 2019 show in London. Photo by Regis Colin Berthelier for NOWFASHION. Right: Symonds Pearmain Fall/Winter 2019 show in London. Photo by Guillaume Roujas for NOWFASHION. 

At Symonds Pearmain, which was an excellently polished and executed collection of natty silhouettes and safari-botanical prints, they came smattered in bows; at Wales Bonner, the designer played with stripes to bring a slick dose of nostalgia; and at Burberry they were more mash-up-style, chopped up and spliced together. The first look was an upside-down polo shirt worn as a skirt. Arguably, the more successful iterations are those that don’t look all that dissimilar to their original counterparts. Yet there’s no mistaking that this is the shirt of the season, be it in a shirt or dress guise. 

SHARE
  • Facebook
  • Twitter
  • Pinterest
SIMILAR ARTICLES
Vulnerable Masculinity and Versatile Workwear
By Elisabeta Tudor
While the first two days of the Paris' Fall/Winter 2020 menswear shows showed that several brands...
By Elisabeta Tudor
While the first two days of the Paris' Fall/Winter 2020 menswear shows showed that several brands were turning to more formal styling, this third day was marked by a less assertive, more fluid take on masculinity.  Chinese designer Sean Suen explored fluid tailoring infused with dark romance. His...
While the first two days of the Paris' Fall/Winter 2020 menswear shows showed that several brands were turning to more formal styling, this third day was marked by a less assertive, more fluid take on masculinity.  Chinese designer Sean Suen explored fluid tailoring infused with dark romance. His light workwear pieces came with a hint of sophisticated tailoring. They were characterized by a...
Virgil Abloh’s Tailored Louis Vuitton
By Gianluca Cantaro
The power of today's communication and branding are tools...
By Gianluca Cantaro
The power of today's communication and branding are tools that big Maisons like Louis Vuitton have mastered and the hype around the acclaimed monogram boosted by name of the designer, Virgil Abloh from Off-White, affected their men's line. Since Abloh...
The power of today's communication and branding are tools that big Maisons like Louis Vuitton have mastered and the hype around the acclaimed monogram boosted by name of the designer, Virgil Abloh from Off-White, affected their men's line. Since Abloh started his master plan and developed the company’s sampling, he has turned the brand into a...
Romanticism in Tailoring by Valentino
By Gianluca Cantaro
The delicate music and voice of Fka Twigs's live performance gave the Valentino show a peculiar...
By Gianluca Cantaro
The delicate music and voice of Fka Twigs's live performance gave the Valentino show a peculiar atmosphere, emphasising romanticism – the main theme of the collection. The tailoring approach that Pierpaolo Piccioli used for jackets, coats, suits and sportswear was stiff and structured. The...
The delicate music and voice of Fka Twigs's live performance gave the Valentino show a peculiar atmosphere, emphasising romanticism – the main theme of the collection. The tailoring approach that Pierpaolo Piccioli used for jackets, coats, suits and sportswear was stiff and structured. The romanticism aspect was expressed by fluid lines mixed with a distinct design: the jackets were opened on...
Formalwear and Future Nostalgia
By Marta Represa & Elisabeta Tudor
Day 2 of Paris Fashion Week kicked off at a derelict building on the 15eme arrondissement with...
By Marta Represa & Elisabeta Tudor
By Marta Represa & Elisabeta Tudor
Day 2 of Paris Fashion Week kicked off at a derelict building on the 15eme arrondissement with the Études show. The Parisian collective has made a name for itself by cleverly anticipating trends ad infusing them with their own identity, creating unpretentious, super covetable collections. If this...
Day 2 of Paris Fashion Week kicked off at a derelict building on the 15eme arrondissement with the Études show. The Parisian collective has made a name for itself by cleverly anticipating trends ad infusing them with their own identity, creating unpretentious, super covetable collections. If this season was no exception, that means we’re in for a tailoring comeback: pleated and tapered trousers...
In Milan Ideas Are Recycled
By Frédéric Martin-Bernard
The fashion industry is forever filled with good intentions. It embraces one cause after another....
By Frédéric Martin-Bernard
By Frédéric Martin-Bernard
The fashion industry is forever filled with good intentions. It embraces one cause after another. Yesterday, it was defending minorities. Today, it fights for the environment. At last week's Pitti Uomo in Florence, you could not even find one single exhibitor who didn't feature a garment crafted...
The fashion industry is forever filled with good intentions. It embraces one cause after another. Yesterday, it was defending minorities. Today, it fights for the environment. At last week's Pitti Uomo in Florence, you could not even find one single exhibitor who didn't feature a garment crafted from eco-friendly or recycled fabrics — a garment that was produced in conditions respectful of...
By Gianluca Cantaro
Gucci abandoned the co-ed formula to go back to fashion week with a proper mens show (58 looks and only 10 were womenswear). "It's my fifth anniversary at the helm of Gucci and I wanted to go back and rediscover all my...
Gucci abandoned the co-ed formula to go back to fashion week with a proper mens show (58 looks and only 10 were womenswear). "It's my fifth anniversary at the helm of Gucci and I wanted to go back and rediscover all my collections," explained Alessandro Michele after the show. "My first collection also happened to...
In Paris '70s Revival and Back-to-Nature Movement
By Marta Represa & Elisabeta Tudor
Sankuanz, Paris Fashion Week’s official opening act this season, moved away from his streetwear...
By Marta Represa & Elisabeta Tudor
By Marta Represa & Elisabeta Tudor
Sankuanz, Paris Fashion Week’s official opening act this season, moved away from his streetwear bread-and-butter without completely abandoning it — after all, the brand is among Hypebeast’s and Ssense’s darlings. Chinese-born designer Shangguan Zhe chose to start his show with a series of sharp...
Sankuanz, Paris Fashion Week’s official opening act this season, moved away from his streetwear bread-and-butter without completely abandoning it — after all, the brand is among Hypebeast’s and Ssense’s darlings. Chinese-born designer Shangguan Zhe chose to start his show with a series of sharp moiré suits for men and women. They were part of an eclectic collection with punk, cyberpunk,...
Menswear on The Rise as Gucci and Ferragamo Return
By Sofia Celeste
Amid a relaxed fashion week that opened with the 25th...
By Sofia Celeste
Amid a relaxed fashion week that opened with the 25th anniversary of Dsquared2 and closed with the return of Gucci to the Milan menswear calendar, designers were upbeat about the future of menswear.   According to a report released by market...
Amid a relaxed fashion week that opened with the 25th anniversary of Dsquared2 and closed with the return of Gucci to the Milan menswear calendar, designers were upbeat about the future of menswear.   According to a report released by market research group Euromonitor International, the menswear sector is forecast to grow 22 percent by 2024 and...