Luca Magliano isn’t afraid of showing his dark side. This season, his menswear show was a warped ode to nightmares, a Fellinian-inspired Mediterranean twist on creatures of the night and provincial creatures of habits, set in a Milanese smokey room in the Navigli district. “We revisited our classic silhouettes by using materials typically associated with womenswear such as viscose crepe in order to give more fluidity to the suits,” said the designer backstage. Magliano also referenced the cult of darkness and the first cave paintings through a series of illustrations used to decorate vests and silk satin shirts, meanwhile, intentionally unfinished details were scattered across Nineties-style suits. Tony, the actor who is often the protagonist of Magliano’s advertising campaigns, closed the show dressed as a chic waiter in a matching vest and trouser set in ivory.
In juxtaposition to Magliano’s darkness, designer Miao Ran decided to look at the world through rose-tinted lenses that augment, distort, morph and magnify everyday life. The Chinese designer based in Milan presented a co-ed collection which juxtaposed maximalist prints and textures. “The layering of bold contrasting colours and fabrics was purposely made to look a bit off, a bit mad,” said Ran backstage. Starting from a mellower palette ranging from blues and browns, the tones were then saturated brightly progressing into bubble gum pinks and neon yellows.
Showing for the first time at Menswear Fashion Week, American Colorado-based manufacturer of high-end skiing apparel Spyder presented a co-ed show in Milan’s Tortona district. Geometric quilting, sharp lines and bold colour-blocking added a modern touch to traditional running jackets, tops and pants, developed with technically advanced materials which offered protection from the cold, as well as lightness and breathability. Fleeces and puffer coats were given a cool vibe with the help of street art inspirations, which influenced the graphic treatments. In celebration of its longtime collaboration with the U.S. Ski Team, a partner of Spyder for over 30 years, the brand also unveiled its new replica capsule collection, which included patches worn by world-class skiers used to embellish many of the garments.
At Frankie Morello Milano, recently appointed creative director Damir Doma showcased a preview of his Fall/Winter 2020 collection in the newly opened store in Milan’s Via Pietro Verri. “It was important for me to emphasize the brand’s new direction by presenting my collection of core items in a store which reflected the new brand identity,” said Doma, in an interview with Nowfashion. This time, the designer wanted to strengthen his new artistic vision by defining the basics that served as a basis for the tone of the future collections, in particular for his upcoming co-ed show which will be shown in February at Milan Fashion Week. “I wanted to create a series of garments which would fit in in the definition of a perfect wardrobe, starting from a well-fitted coat and a really well-made parka, those key elements you can play with for the next seasons. Once you have this, you have a canvas you can work with,” said the designer. Traditional tailored trousers, cropped coats in Prince of Wales checks and parkas were presented in contrast to a series of t-shirts, sweaters and joggers in tie-dye prints, with the slogans ‘Soul Searching’ and ‘All Those Who Wander Are Not Lost’.
Fashion East and Slam Jam joined forces to celebrate the end of Menswear Fashion Week in Milan by hosting a cocktail party at Spazio Maiocchi, Slam Jam’s art and events space. The London-based initiative that nurtures young talent, threw a one-off party introducing Liam Hodges’ Fall/Winter 2020 collection in collaboration with creative and skateboarder Lucien Clarke's fashion and art project DCV'87. Set to the techno sounds of DJ Hasani, Hodges debuted a collection that merged his signature rugged workwear staples and playful sporty styles with artisanal details. Not to miss were the knitted patchwork vests and sweaters which were layered over bold graphics printed all over hoodies and t-shirts.