MILAN So Far: The Goddess Prevails

MILAN—Parading down the runway in shimmering gold gowns, with perfect slim bodies and barely aging faces, Gianni Versace’s original ’90s supermodels (now in and around a half century old) showed us that goddesses do indeed walk among us.  

Sadly, Naomi Campbell, Cindy Crawford, Carla Bruni, Helena Christensen, and Claudia Schiffer reunited one time only for the 20th anniversary of Gianni Versace’s death, but elsewhere, Milanese brands served up just enough fashion fantasy to make the public believe that they too can have a slice of the proverbial fashion pie. 

 


Photo by Guillaume Roujas for NOWFASHION

Across the board, an ultra-feminine backlash to all the recent androgyny that has been gender bending fashion from Milan to New York, pervaded. With statement touches like satin tutus, Japonica florals, baby girl cartoon motifs, and enough french lace and broderie anglaise alla Jane Austin, Italian brands said: BASTA! 

Grace, poetry, and a sense of excess permeated at Milan RTW: 

Fausto Puglisi was the first to throw us all for a loop with his Baroque ballerina theme – quite frankly the polar opposite of the badass mafia boss he drew inspiration from in February. The designer, known for his gilded, sexy divas adorned with ancient Mediterranean coins and religious symbols, showed his woman also has a soft side – tulle tutus, satin ballet slippers, and traditional Italian linen and lace typical of a Sicilian grandmother’s dowry dominated the awe-struck runway.

Etro – Spring/Summer 2018 from Etro was detailed from neck to toe in a collection that conjured images of the ancient Silk Road, its queens and maharajas. Hand embroidered patterns, crystal jewels, and accents on silk scarves and silk brocades and jacquards made for one of the most luxurious collections this week. 

Moschino – Gigi Hadid dressed up as a bouquet of flowers, Anna Cleveland throwing silk flower petals into the crowd… Kaia Gerber in a My Little Pony tee. With that, Jeremy Scott served up a forgotten age of innocence, a welcomed reprieve, in the midst of all the geopolitical gloom and doom.

 


Photo by Guillaume Roujas for NOWFASHION

Luisa Beccaria – Sicily, its landscapes and tales of old, served as the starting point for Luisa Beccaria, whose daughter was married at the family’s almond farm in Castellucchio this summer. Bags of almonds were distributed in potpourri sacks to the crowd and flower petals covered the dreamy x-shaped catwalk where floor-length gowns in cotton eyelit, tablecloth fabrics printed with flower buds and stripes conjured images of home cooked meals by the cerulean Italian coast.      

Alberta Ferretti – “All that glitters” was certainly on Alberta Ferretti’s mind when she envisaged her Spring/Summer 2018 collection that culminated in flashy metallic lamé numbers, plunging bathing suits, and a sexy array of poolside-wear in olive green and all black.  

Alberto Zambelli, Albino Teodoro, and Gabriele Colangelo – Zambelli and Teodoro are not new to fashion, but they're relatively new on the catwalk scene. Having tested their stripes at big name houses like Versace, Ungaro, and Vionnet, these designers have a knack for pret-a-couture, drapery, pleating, weightless designs, and modern silhouettes. Colangelo’s Spring/Summer collection was marked by a blue hand made plisse with a leathery finish – a special appliqué – one of the most innovative techniques revealed all week.

 


Photo by Guillaume Roujas for NOWFASHION

Paula Cademartori – Since Renzo Rosso’s OTB bought a majority stake in Paula Cademartori’s accessories brand, the fearless Brazilian designer has been on a mission to up her game. Now that she has the financial backing… it was time to let her bling on out. This season, in addition to her tribal, street-art-inspired, whimsical designs, she rolled out Urban Oasis, a gem-studded collection fit for Carrie Bradshaw’s second wedding, or… well…. royalty for that matter.   Outfitted with jumbo crystals and stones, her collection was a show stopper. “What can I say? It was time to go glam,” she told NOWFASHION.  

Max Mara – Organz-mic vibes were given off at the Spring/Summer show where metropolitan outerwear was layered in gossamer-thin, transparent fabric. The urban collection was punctuated with sweeping floral printed gowns and flowing skirts, sometimes paired with wool sweaters... for a woman that is both delicate and confident in her sexuality. 

Salvatore Ferragamo – Was all over the place. There is a reason for that. Creative lead for Ferragamo’s women’s ready-to-wear, Fulvio Rigoni, took inspiration from pieces ordered by Ferragamo’s top clients over the last century. A mix up indeed: evening numbers were tasseled, sequined and even tie dyed – indicative of how audacious the upper one percent can be.  

 

 

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