Consider the dress, seemed to whisper Moon Young Hee through her fall runway collection shown on the ultimate day of Paris. After weeks of catwalks spanning every item under the sky, this idea brought the fashion conversation full circle to the essential token of feminine clothing.
In previous seasons, Hee may have wandered away from the intense femininity of her imaginary muse, a girl's girl. Here, she returned to the silhouettes that she had once favored, full, layered yet newly structured in thicker fabrics for the colder season. In movement, this translated into a softly rolling bounce for a rounded hem. With the practiced ease of the monomaniac, the Paris-based designer transcribes a certain delicacy through this idea of a dress that spaws an entire collection: here an actual dress, there a coat, elsewhere separates that each have the same feminine allure to them.
Double face heavyweight silks and satins allowed her to play with volumes, generating an eyecatching geometric layering effect that highlighted Hee's talent for feminine tailoring. When congressing with the diaphanous, collars embraced without restraining. So accustomed have we become with the dichotomy of tailoring versus destructuration that the middle road becomes an unusual promenade. It isn't easy to spot the original toile behind her torturous folds and boils of fabric. When you do, a coat wraps asymmetrically around the body just so, a hemline tumbles down both hips like molten quicksilver. All of it plays with the body, skimming, never constricting. Ultimately, her work is never truly finished until it is finished with a body to truly give it substance. This aloof elegance was perhaps a quieter discourse than the thunder and lightning of most but its placid conviction made for a strong statement nonetheless, from a mind unfettered by fashion's needy coolness.