New Beginnings

Perhaps it’s because it’s the Spring/Summer 2020 shows – with emphasis on the 2020 part – that the menswear collections this season felt for the most part fresh and new. It will soon be a new decade after all. Designers pushed themselves to explore new ground, open new chapters, and create worlds that were personal to them, the result of which means the era of the per usual streetwear-sportswear trend has finally passed. And I would hedge a bet that by the time we get to the end of the menswear show cycle in a few weeks, we’ll look back on London for being especially strong because of that this season.



Munn Spring/Summer 2020 menswear show in London. Photo by Regis Colin Berthelier for NOWFASHION.


Seoul-based brand Munn, from Hyun-Min Han, opened the week with a beautifully romantic collection that seamlessly blended outdoor style with tailoring, showing the process of creating while it was at it. There was craft, tactility, emotion and history, along with a unique point of view.


Stefan Cooke Spring/Summer 2020 menswear show in London. Photo by Regis Colin Berthelier for NOWFASHION.


As there was too at Stefan Cooke, another runaway success of the week. Design duo Stefan Cooke and Jake Burt explored theatre costumes and cleverly updated them by exposing their construction process and morphing them, adding in their hallmark trompe l’œil prints to make you question the piece’s existence. It was the brand’s first debut show since leaving Fashion East and the techniques at play were quite incredible (the rave reviews had begun before the audience had left the venue) and furthered their signature use of diamonds and elliptical knits.



Mowalola's collection at the Fashion East Spring/Summer 2020 menswear show in London. Photo by Regis Colin Berthelier for NOWFASHION.


Their former fellow Fashion East stablemate Mowalola, meanwhile, had progressed considerably from last season, where then it was the coats that had been her strong point. This time, it was the whole lot: one part Noughties to one part American Western. The execution of pieces, especially in the fit, had come on leaps and bounds and it all felt slicker, cooler, more developed. In her show notes, the designer had cited falling in love as the reason behind the change in gear – notably even going so far as to take the motif of a bullet and adorning some of the dresses with it in reference to how love feels.



Charles Jeffrey LOVERBOY Spring/Summer 2020 menswear show in London. Photos by Guillaume Roujas for NOWFASHION.


And there was clearly a change in tack at Charles Jeffrey Loverboy. In what could be deemed – for Loverboy – a bit more of a subdued collection, certainly one that seemed to lend itself to more commercial tendencies, the designer refrained from his dramatic performance pieces and wandered into nostalgic Westwood territory in an about-turn to last season’s couture nods – which is more an observation than it is a criticism.



paria /FARZANEH Spring/Summer 2020 menswear show in London. Photo by Guillaume Roujas for NOWFASHION.


What all of this does suggest is that looking ahead, while London’s schedule might now be retracted, it packs a heck of a punch in just three days with an overload of ideas – which is a very good thing. Wrapping up the last day, Paria Farzaneh had hints of the best parts and theatrics of Undercover with a collection that refocussed back on those great prints she uses and came styled with menacing masks that had seemingly stepped straight out of the original version of the film The Purge.


SHARE
  • Facebook
  • Twitter
  • Pinterest
SIMILAR ARTICLES
Sustainability: The Inditex Effect
By Sofia Celeste
MILAN--This summer, Zara’s parent company Inditex unveiled its ambitious plans to produce 100...
By Sofia Celeste
MILAN--This summer, Zara’s parent company Inditex unveiled its ambitious plans to produce 100 percent of all of its clothing with sustainable fabrics before 2025.  If Inditex does keep its promises, it could revolutionize the textile and clothing industry for good, rendering sustainable materials...
MILAN--This summer, Zara’s parent company Inditex unveiled its ambitious plans to produce 100 percent of all of its clothing with sustainable fabrics before 2025.  If Inditex does keep its promises, it could revolutionize the textile and clothing industry for good, rendering sustainable materials and components more affordable, especially in countries like Portugal, one of its major suppliers....
Metropolitan Sophisticate At Giada
By Sofia Celeste
With a collection that unfolded among the dusty manuscripts of Milan’s Biblioteca Braidense,...
By Sofia Celeste
With a collection that unfolded among the dusty manuscripts of Milan’s Biblioteca Braidense, Giada’s Spring/Summer 2020 collection saluted the cosmopolitan jet-set – just months after it opened its first US monobrand stores. 
Giada feted the Boston store, situated on the edge of the Boston Common...
With a collection that unfolded among the dusty manuscripts of Milan’s Biblioteca Braidense, Giada’s Spring/Summer 2020 collection saluted the cosmopolitan jet-set – just months after it opened its first US monobrand stores. 
Giada feted the Boston store, situated on the edge of the Boston Common and next to the city’s Four Season’s Hotel, in April. Since Boston is not a fashion mecca, Giada...
More More More
By John-Michael O'Sullivan
Fashion has always been, in no small part, about the rich. The industry first sprang to life in...
By John-Michael O'Sullivan
By John-Michael O'Sullivan
Fashion has always been, in no small part, about the rich. The industry first sprang to life in the 19th century, to indulge the whims of royalty and aristocrats; decades later, the great houses of Paris couture’s golden age were sustained by a tiny, fiercely loyal (and high-spending) clientele....
Fashion has always been, in no small part, about the rich. The industry first sprang to life in the 19th century, to indulge the whims of royalty and aristocrats; decades later, the great houses of Paris couture’s golden age were sustained by a tiny, fiercely loyal (and high-spending) clientele. London, though, has always been more democratic; it’s the city of Mary Quant and Carnaby Street, of...
At Prada simplicity is back
By Gianluca Cantaro
“The feeling in today’s world is that everything is too much. Overproduction, overconsumption,...
By Gianluca Cantaro
By Gianluca Cantaro
“The feeling in today’s world is that everything is too much. Overproduction, overconsumption, overspeed. This makes a harsh contrast with the need we have to consume and pollute less,” explained Miuccia Prada before the show wearing a beautiful and very bourgeoise outfit: a blue cashmere...
“The feeling in today’s world is that everything is too much. Overproduction, overconsumption, overspeed. This makes a harsh contrast with the need we have to consume and pollute less,” explained Miuccia Prada before the show wearing a beautiful and very bourgeoise outfit: a blue cashmere pullover, long pearl necklaces, white slip dress, and black polished décolletées. “It’s the contradiction...
What looking to the future looks like at LFW
By Jessica Bumpus
A short film played at the beginning of the Marques’Almeida show this season in which the brand’s...
By Jessica Bumpus
A short film played at the beginning of the Marques’Almeida show this season in which the brand’s “MA girls” talked about what they’d want their daughters to know. The designer Erdem referenced Tina Modotti as muse, noting: “At the time of her death, the world might have been on the brink of...
A short film played at the beginning of the Marques’Almeida show this season in which the brand’s “MA girls” talked about what they’d want their daughters to know. The designer Erdem referenced Tina Modotti as muse, noting: “At the time of her death, the world might have been on the brink of modernity, but it was still in the midst of war, battling ideologies that would rip apart the very...
ZEGNA  explores #WHATMAKESAMAN
By Maura Madeddu
“Men have been the core of our business since 1910,” claimed Ermenegildo Zegna. For more than a...
By Maura Madeddu
“Men have been the core of our business since 1910,” claimed Ermenegildo Zegna. For more than a century, Zegna has been the point of reference for men’s classic elegance.  Along with it, the brand has spent decades building the image of a true gentleman, as its ideal customer. But times have...
“Men have been the core of our business since 1910,” claimed Ermenegildo Zegna. For more than a century, Zegna has been the point of reference for men’s classic elegance.  Along with it, the brand has spent decades building the image of a true gentleman, as its ideal customer. But times have changed. Today, modern masculinity is not that easy to label. It just does not suffice to synthesize...
Fashion for the real world
By John-Michael O'Sullivan
After a weekend of searing sunshine, Monday morning saw London return to business as usual; grey...
By John-Michael O'Sullivan
By John-Michael O'Sullivan
After a weekend of searing sunshine, Monday morning saw London return to business as usual; grey skies, sullen rain, and trains crowded with commuters in various combinations of what currently passes as the city’s 21st century working wardrobe; crisp blazers or fitted biker jackets, shirts or...
After a weekend of searing sunshine, Monday morning saw London return to business as usual; grey skies, sullen rain, and trains crowded with commuters in various combinations of what currently passes as the city’s 21st century working wardrobe; crisp blazers or fitted biker jackets, shirts or slouchy tees, pleated skirts or slim trousers. The morning newspapers were splashed with images from...
A successful color wave by Benetton
By Gianluca Cantaro
Last season, the debut collection of Jean-Charles de Castelbajac, freshly appointed as Artistic...
By Gianluca Cantaro
Last season, the debut collection of Jean-Charles de Castelbajac, freshly appointed as Artistic Director at United Colors of Benetton, actually left me a bit surprised. How can a brand that desperately needs to get back the trust of the youth propose a funny show, even a bit eccentric with the...
Last season, the debut collection of Jean-Charles de Castelbajac, freshly appointed as Artistic Director at United Colors of Benetton, actually left me a bit surprised. How can a brand that desperately needs to get back the trust of the youth propose a funny show, even a bit eccentric with the styles, instead of wearable and easy items that were previously the pure DNA of the brand from...