A roll call of familiar faces walked the Simone Rocha show this Autumn/Winter 2019 season in a clever take-note move from the designer who has so coined her aesthetic, and so early on in her career, that her shows tend now to veer on the to-be-expected side of the spectrum.
Chloë Sevigny at the Simone Rocha Fall/Winter 2019 show in London. Photo by Regis Colin Berthelier for NOWFASHION.
But showing her wares on a range of women, from age to shape and size, was an agile move with Chloë Sevigny (the starriest), Lily Cole (who we haven’t seen for a while), Jade Parfitt, and Lindsey Wixson among those showing off her particular blend of pretty femininity.
It certainly aided to show that actually one can wear her clothes if that had before been a criticism; the pieces were beautiful, of that there is no doubt, and equally meticulously executed as we know so well from Rocha. But that’s potentially the problem – we know her so well. We know the Victoriana doll dresses and the puff sleeve trenches; we know the florals and the restrained froth; it’s pretty, very pretty; it’s Simone.
There was, it should be noted, an expansion though here in fabrication, and the designer played with the idea of underwear as outerwear with little bralettes and cropped basques atop her debutante dresses. There were hints of Miu Miu in that instance, and the shoes came beaded with jewels and rendered in velvet, like little dance pumps.
Simone Rocha Fall/Winter 2019 show in London. Photos by Regis Colin Berthelier for NOWFASHION.
Later on came sky blue and baby pink little dresses that began to stray from that signature territory we know so well – they were more babydoll and smock in shape, straight down and splaying, their simplicity compelling and modern by comparison to the elaborate, though incredibly elegant, confections of before. It was a good note to end on and a glimpse of where else she could go in the future. Hers is a definable aesthetic – let’s see it branch out into more.